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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:14 pm 
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This is a carved relief of Taos Ski Valley. The 6" ruler in the back gives you a sense of scale. The blank before cutting was 20x20x4.5" of baltic birch. The finished piece is 18" square.
The vertical scale is the same as the horizontal, hence the 4.5" blank.

I've spent about 5 hours sanding it, removing all the cutter marks. Eventually this will be the center of the lid of a blanket chest for our place in Taos Ski Valley (where else.)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:32 pm 
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DR STRIP: Holy topography Batman!!! How are your ears? What did you do to sand the piece, a flap sander on a drill ? What will you do for a finish? Amazing!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:14 pm 
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I sanded with flap sanders on a Bosch "sanding roller". But there is so much fine detail, the flap sanding was very limited. The rest was all hand sanding.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Hey drstrip,

How do you plan to incorporate the carving into the lid? It seems pretty thick for a framed in panel. Will you recess it, or will it stand proud?

Cheers,
Tom

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 10:02 pm 
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It will stand proud, essentially a decoration sitting on the lid. Not much else comes to mind, esp since it slopes towards one corner, leaving very little depth in one corner, lots of depth at the diagonal. Obviously nothing will get piled on top of the lid.

The tougher question is how to hinge the lid. Going to have to learn about sizing airsprings since this baby weighs A LOT.

David


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 10:35 pm 
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Hey David,

It looks heavy. Perhaps you could lighten it by hollowing out the backside with a large Forstner bit. Or better yet, rout the inverse image with the CNC.

Cheers,
Tom

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:38 pm 
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tms wrote:
Hey David,

It looks heavy. Perhaps you could lighten it by hollowing out the backside with a large Forstner bit. Or better yet, rout the inverse image with the CNC.


It will be really difficult to do an work on the back at this point since clamping it in place is challenging, to say the least.

Had I thought of it, hollowing the back before cutting the top would have worked (though coercing the software to do the right thing in the right place would require a bit of head-scratching). Too late for that. If I ever do something like this again, I'll have to try that approach. But for now, I'll just use gas springs this time around once I figure out how to size them.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 1:20 am 
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Now that is going to look real fine when finished. Wish I had the needed skill set for cnc programing.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 6:04 pm 
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Paul Gauthier wrote:
Wish I had the needed skill set for cnc programing.


You probably do and just don't know it. Long gone are the days when you have to sit and write raw g-code (the language of most CNC controllers). For the topo map in this thread I used dmap2gcode, a free program that takes a depth map (in the form of a gray scale image) and generates the required g-code. Yes, you have to understand speeds and feeds for your router, but most woodworkers can figure that out. You need to understand a few gcode items to set the header that dmap2gcode will use, but that's pretty straightforward and a one-time thing.

For other projects you will end up using something like Fusion 360 (free from Adobe for personal use), which has a programming module. Another good program (about $150) for woodworking CNC is CAMBAM. This takes drawings in .dxf format (or you can draw directly in the program). You then identify boundaries for pockets and such, pick your feeds and speeds, and off you go.

I'm not claiming it's trivial to create a decent program, but most reasonably competent woodworkers with analytical skills can work with these programs to drive a CNC router (or other CNC tool.)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 7:03 pm 
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I sure would like to as my son in law has a Haas 4x8 foot cnc router,


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 2:52 am 
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:thumbup: lots of love there

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