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 Post subject: Threaded inserts problem
PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 12:01 pm 
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OK folks I'm stymied. How in the world do I get these things to go in perpendicular to the surface?? I even tried by drilling a hole deeper the same diameter as the screw and trying to use that to align (and keep it that way) as I turned the insert in with a wrench with the screw locked to the insert by a nut. Still came out angled by 5 or 10 deg. The large ones are what is needed right now. They are 5/16 - 18 threaded and body is 0.495, with the "fins" (hate to call those things threads) on outside 0.590. I drilled the hole 1/2" and even drilled a 9/16 about 1/8 in. deep and then countersunk the face ( the material is over 1" OSB with a "Formica" type laminate on it) to eliminate the laminate causing a problem.
Help please.
Image
...lew...


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 12:47 pm 
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8) How I've done it was to use a nut and bolt, thread the nut on, then thread the bolt in and run the nut down to lock it tight. that gives a longer line up.
If this is going to go all the way through just run the bolt through and run the insert down and it will follow straight.
Is this greek enough?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:15 pm 
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Lew,
Frank is right! I've only done this twice but the last time I got it right. I did as Frank said....put a bolt in the hole (barely start the thread in the wood hole) then unscrew the nut so that it is flush with the surface making sure it is flat & solid....then screw the bolt in to cut the threads in the wood. The second time I did this was easier because I used a wooden clamp with a hole in one side (I use this to remove stubborn saw nuts) the hole in the clamp allows the pressure to hold the nut while leaving the bolt free to turn. I'll see if I can get a picture to illustrate the process.
HTH

Don


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:56 pm 
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I've cut the head off a bolt, chucked it into the drill press, threaded the insert onto the bolt then use the spindle of the drill press to align the insert in the hold. Thread a jamb nut on above the insert so you can turn the drill spindle BY HAND to thread the insert into the hole, or use a wrench on the nut as you apply pressure with the drill press.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:19 pm 
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Here I believe there are several methods.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=in ... &FORM=VDRE

I learned something from the above link, the slot in the inserts is not for a flat blade screwdriver. It is to aid in the cutting of wood fibers when inserting, The slotted end goes in the hole first.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 8:27 am 
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Paul Gauthier wrote:
Here I believe there are several methods.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=in ... &FORM=VDRE

I learned something from the above link, the slot in the inserts is not for a flat blade screwdriver. It is to aid in the cutting of wood fibers when inserting, The slotted end goes in the hole first.

:-) That is NOT what the manufacturer says about the slot. Right in their web page it says (not an exact quote) Can be installed with a screwdriver. :-) So much for the Utube self styled experts. :-)
One of the big problems I have is, this is trying to re-design an already built, big heavy Router table and the idea of using a drill press to work on the back side of it is almost hilarious. :-) I need to extend the table surface about 16 to 18 inches to handle some large pieces for dadoes. So was trying to add these to the back to use to attach angles on the bottom of the extension. I think I'll jut go with using through holes and live with having to put a nut on the "inside". It will mean a bit of trouble holding either the bolt head or the nut and tuning the other. May be able to "fix" the bit on the inside so it will not turn. That will be the simplest solution.
I've watched most of those videos on the subject and it appears no one has tried to do this on a large cumbersome object. :-)
Thanks for the help.
...Lew...
PS Edit: I also saw an idea on one of the vids. about just using epoxy to install them and that may have worked but needing the bolt size hole to go on in a ways and keeping the inside hole clear may be difficult.
..Lew..


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:39 am 
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I just put all those brass inserts in a jar and bought something with the ability to cut its own way in. http://www.rockler.com/hex-drive-thread ... paign=(ROI)%20Shopping%20-%20Hardware&utm_term=1100005070295&utm_content=*Everything%20else%20in%20%27Hardware%27

Then, to make sure, I bought a step drill to enlarge the first 1/4 inch of the insert hole equal to the large thread diameter. http://www.toolup.com/product-images/DE ... 84IR_1.jpg Holds things nice and straight, and doesn't bulge up wood to keep from making full contact with the piece I'm attaching to it.

Stupid slots just don't work right. Use the hex type.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 11:17 am 
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I have used the drill press method and the hex drive type, both will work.
Don't know where I saw the jig shown below. It is about 1 3/4 square and any length that works. Clamp it down or screw it down, again, whatever works.
The notch has to be high (deep) enough so that the lock nut and insert sits on the top of the drilled hole.





[URL=http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/Javelin67/media/screw%20insert%20jig%20001_zpswuhlt8av.jp
Image[/URL]



Norm


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 12:17 pm 
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Would a T nut work? Could be countersunk flush with the surface if need be.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 3:16 pm 
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Paul Gauthier wrote:
Here I believe there are several methods.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=in ... &FORM=VDRE

I learned something from the above link, the slot in the inserts is not for a flat blade screwdriver. It is to aid in the cutting of wood fibers when inserting, The slotted end goes in the hole first.


Paul. thanks for that tip and link.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 12:43 am 
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So I guess I learned something else, "Don't trust the links." :roll:


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