WWA Info Exchange

For Woodworkers By Woodworkers
It is currently Mon Mar 18, 2024 10:33 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 9:53 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 3072
Location: Lakeport NY (Syracuse)
OK all you spinny guys,
right now I've mostly got 'dry' logs (some checking, mostly before I picked them up), but I'm going to put the word out to family and friends that I want wet logs if they have any.


http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... blade.aspx

It would be $19 plus shipping etc...

what say ye, is it worth having a dedicated 'wet' wood blade or should I just get a general purpose blade and be done with it.

I only have a 14" HF bandsaw with a lift kit installed, I'm not going to be putting huge logs through it, nor trying to horse anything through it quickly.

_________________
Ned

Madison Woodsmith.
WWACNYAUX #1
2B1ASK1


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 12:51 am 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:31 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Rochester, NY
I have one of these blades and have been very pleased with it. Takes a good clean cut, is sized to cut cylidrical bowl blanks easily. It is performing much better than the general purpose dry wood 3/8" blade that I tried first.

Good luck,
chip

_________________
chip


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:19 am 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:41 am
Posts: 1790
You might want to go for a 1/2 blade with the riser. Sort of push/pull with the extra width but lesser thickness. Until pieces get close to 50% of the lathe swing, round is not that critical, so a 5" diameter is fine. Main thing is the slternate set for a wide kerf that keeps the warm wood from swelling closed on the blade. AS or AS-S both work fine.

I get mine here, and they're excellent blades. http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/silicon ... ection.asp


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 11:25 am 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 1:01 am
Posts: 3687
Location: Alexandria, VA, USA
Wet or dry, dedicated or general purpose make sure you use the correct TPI for the size of the log.

AND DON'T TELL ME YOUR GOING TO GO SLOWLY INSTEAD OF CHANGING THE 6TPI FOR THE 3TPI. You will fry the blade, DAMHIKT. :wink:

_________________
Jeff

If man made it, I can fix it.
If God made it we can pray for it.

Lessons I have learned:
NEVER MAKE ANYTHING OUT OF TEAK
Always remove the zero clearance insert before you tilt the blade DAMHIKT


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 8:48 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 3072
Location: Lakeport NY (Syracuse)
I go slowly just because it is relatively underpowered

_________________
Ned

Madison Woodsmith.
WWACNYAUX #1
2B1ASK1


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 12:50 am 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 10:44 am
Posts: 3951
Location: Skagit Co WA
Jeff Fox wrote:
... You will fry the blade, ...


And don't go fast just because you've got a mondo blade and gobs of horsepower to shove it through the wood. "You'll fry the blade."! Another DAMHIK!!

I've had good luck with 3TPI skip tooth blades for most any work destined for the lathe. Not worried about smoothness of the cut so I'll go bi metal or silicone steel. They both seem to work well in wet wood. Around here, the Puget Sound region of WA state, we're fortunate to have a really good saw shop in Seattle, Eastside Saw. Yeah that's a shameless plug but they're a top notch source for all things saw blade related. It pays to search out a local vendor that has a good working knowledge of what's best for a given cutting application.

Don't know how big your 'logs' are or what kind of wood, but I have a feeling, perhaps wrong but, ... you'll be taxing your saw. I do wish you luck.

As for the 'dry' logs you 'claim' to posess, I have to invoke the NPDH rule! And failure to provide species data for the initial question adds another 30 lashes with a wet noodle!

Just kiddin'. I'm jealous 'coz I've got a plastic bag full of plum that's begging me to get it on the lathe and I just can't get to it!

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:57 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 3072
Location: Lakeport NY (Syracuse)
DennisS wrote:
And don't go fast just because you've got a mondo blade and gobs of horsepower to shove it through the wood. "You'll fry the blade."! Another DAMHIK!!

Don't know how big your 'logs' are or what kind of wood, but I have a feeling, perhaps wrong but, ... you'll be taxing your saw. I do wish you luck.

As for the 'dry' logs you 'claim' to posess, I have to invoke the NPDH rule! And failure to provide species data for the initial question adds another 30 lashes with a wet noodle!


Image

Image

one of my stash.. species is 'dunno' wood.

I'm debating how to take off that 'foot'
because it isn't supported when at the blade. I don't want to kink the blade.

_________________
Ned

Madison Woodsmith.
WWACNYAUX #1
2B1ASK1


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:02 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 9:37 pm
Posts: 5398
Location: Tucson, AZ
clamp it to a sled? That's how I do my pieces that I'm scared will be unsupported. I made a simple one with faces for the clamps to register to-- on one occasion I even screwed a log to a flat board (and was careful not to hit the screws)

Lawrence


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 3:53 am 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:41 am
Posts: 1790
Why do you need to take off the foot? Though I have, as Lawrence has, screwed into an area scheduled to disappear and slud the whole plywood/greenwood complex through, it's not a necessity when your lathe has low speed. Two points will allow you to trim all others.

Be sure to wedge under the tall parts if you use one of the clamp or screw methods. Shinola happens.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group