Gene wrote:
R. Peterson wrote:
rwdare wrote:
As long as you don't use waterproof glue and the veneer runs the same direction as the drawer front you won't have any problems as long as the veneer and substrate are both at the same moisture comtent.
Thick veneer behaves like solid wood so with species with similar movement rates everything is stable. Just don't glue flat sawn to quarter sawn. Personally, I would recommend liquid hide glue for the joint.
I wouldn't use the liquid hide glue (or even hide glue at all) here. Hide glue is water based and it does tend to crystalize when it ages. Plus, the liquid stuff takes forever to dry in wide joints if it ever does.
I'd use a good epoxy instead. That will NEVER let go.
Ok, lets talk glues.
I'd always heard that hide was the way to go with veneer, but you forced me to go look at joewoodworker.com and his discussion of various glues for veneering. He sells a type of PVA made specifically for veneering - "Better Bond Cold Press", that is supposed to overcome the difficulties of hide glue or yellow glue. Have you ever used it?
Epoxy, is pricey for the sqft I need to cover and short working life once mixed.
That said, his focus is on thin veneer so maybe his advise doesn't totally apply to my application.
Some others he discusses also:
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm
The problem with PVA glues is creep. Creep is where the glue lines become little ridges as the wood swells or shrinks. PVA glues are also water soluble so IF the piece were to get wet, or be exposed to high humidity the veneers could "pop" loose. Using a "cold press" glue won't help. And, with the 1/4" thick pieces we're not really talking about "veneer" here anyway.
What we're really talking about is bonding 2 pieces of wood together face-to-face. You don't want to worry that cupping could cause the glue to let go. You don't want to worry that the moisture in the glue will
cause cupping in the thinner pieces. And, believe me, when you start talking "thin" you'd better be thinking about moisture.
Epoxy is cheap. It has no moisture, will not creep, machines and scrapes easily, will set across a wide joint where air can't reach, and is structurally so it fills voids. You can even use the 90 minute stuff from the auto parts store. < $5 per syringe. 1 syringe will cover about 4 sq ft if you're careful and don't spread it too thick.
Depending on how much sq footage we're talking about here, it just might be cheaper to buy a board or 2 over the internet and have them shipped to you.