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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:19 pm 
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I let Elena do all physical work:

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and then I make sure she cleans up the shop when done.

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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 5:58 pm 
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woodshopdemos wrote:
I let Elena do all physical work:

Image

and then I make sure she cleans up the shop when done.


I take it Elena does not read this forum.

rick


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 8:58 pm 
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Clamp storage that doesn't take a lot of space

Image
See "Clamp Storage"


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 8:47 am 
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Having kids around brings a lot of ideas for shop tips.

One such tip is empty plastic containers from Motts apple sauce my kids eat all the time.

I use them to mix glue, trans tint dyes and small amounts of finish. Glue doesn't stick to them so whenever I'm done I just let the glue cure and peel it right off.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 9:02 am 
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Use 30-minute epoxy to fill the zero clearance insert. Start off nearly new again.

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Countin' flowers on the wall,
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:25 am 
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Sean McNulty wrote:
Use 30-minute epoxy to fill the zero clearance insert. Start off nearly new again.


Wow! How did I never think of this? Wish I had back some of the ones I've disposed of over the years.

You people are terrific! Keep the ideas coming.
Scot


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:06 pm 
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Rare earth magnet wrapped in a paper towel to clean diamond stones. Also, drop one into the water well of a tormek or any water sharpener to remove waste. Stick one to the side of the DP to hold the chuck.
Don


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:37 am 
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Buy a copy of "Glovers Pocket Reference" . An amazing amount of useful info in a small package. :) Well worth the $10 - http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Ref-Thomas ... 913&sr=1-3

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:17 pm 
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I buy 400 and 600 grit sheet wet/dry paper, trace around the DA pad, cut out and use spray glue. Peel off when finished. Much cheaper.

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Sean

Countin' flowers on the wall,
that don't bother me at all,
smokin' cigarettes and watchin' Captain Kangaroo,
Now don't tell me I've nothin' to do.

Second recipient of the D'oh Award. 4-13-08


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:42 pm 
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When finishing small pieces I've been using pizza box inserts to hold the parts while they dry.
Image

But last night while starting a finishing job envolving several parts, I ran out of the little stands. That's when I came up with this.
Image

My finish table, and old drafting table, is covered with 2 layers of thick cardboard, (the box that my SCMS came in). While looking around for something to stand the parts on, all I could find was a bunch of straight pins. Come to find out, by sticking them into the card board cover, they work just great.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 6:50 am 
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My shop lights are on 2 seperate switches, one for each side of the shop. I have advised my Lovely to turn off one of the switches and immediately switch it back on to tell me she's in the shop, especially if I'm running a power tool.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:52 am 
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I stole this one from my buddy Mark.

I store the wood in my shop vertically and use bungy cords to hold it snug. It is a LOT easier to pull pieces off the wall than it is out of a very deep stack. Plus, you can leaf through it easier to find the timber you really want.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:57 pm 
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MY TIP IS DON'T EVER GET INTO WOODWORKING
TO MAKE MONEY :roll:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 4:39 pm 
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I just got this one via email and had to share it.

This so-simple idea addresses how to countersink a hole in a hard to get to place...such as the inside of a small drawer.

http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/2009/06/11/ws//print/

Reverse the countersink bit. So obvious once I saw it but probably never would have thought of it in my lifetime.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:57 pm 
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Got this from a UK web site, thanks Ray. :wink:

This is for the Turners.

If you have a set height that you like your tool rest at, you could buy one of those collars and lock in place with a set screw. However, there are times it needs to be lower and you have to go find the allen wrench.

Well this caught my I because I do the above all the time.

Get some PVC with an inside diameter larger than the post of the tool rest and cut it to the length that will hold tool rest to the correct height.

What’s great about this is you can make several for specific tools.

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Jeff

If man made it, I can fix it.
If God made it we can pray for it.

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NEVER MAKE ANYTHING OUT OF TEAK
Always remove the zero clearance insert before you tilt the blade DAMHIKT


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 8:16 am 
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If you need a file handle, but don't have a lathe.

A 1” copper cap has a 1-1/8” inside diameter and get a 1-1/8” dowel.

You could also use a coupling, but I like the rounded edge. It's easier on the hand it you grab it there.

I think you can figure out the rest. :wink:

Image

Image

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Jeff

If man made it, I can fix it.
If God made it we can pray for it.

Lessons I have learned:
NEVER MAKE ANYTHING OUT OF TEAK
Always remove the zero clearance insert before you tilt the blade DAMHIKT


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:51 am 
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Along with the applesauce containers mentioned, yogurt containers are great for mixing epoxies and other two part glues or material. For mixing sticks I save all our popscicle sticks.

Even smaller portions of such stuff is easily mixed in the plastic lids that some yogurt containers come with.

The popscicle sticks work well for sandpaper backup when working in small areas.

While it's probably obvious, when I put a ferrule on a tool handle I turn the handle a few thou oversize, then heat the ferrule (either a short piece of copper pipe or for the big stuff a short piece of EMT) It doesn't take too much to expand the metal which can then be driven onto the handle after the tool has been inserted locking the tool onto the handle.

Over the years I've collected lots of scrap allthread from 3/8 to 3/4 diameter. A few nuts and washers to match the allthread opens a wide door to the kinds of custom clamps you can quickly fabricate from scrap hardwood.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Do you want to try a tried and true old remedy to remove splinters? Take a raw potato, cut it so the raw edge will fit over the area where the splinters are. Hold it against the sores for at least 30 minutes. It should pull out the infection and the splinters!!!

This is one from my Mother, years ago. It saved me fom having to spend a Thanksgiving Day in the ER after getting cactus splinters in the palm of my hand. I've found this works especially well with those splinters that are close to the color of your skin....plywood, for instance--the ones you can't readily see.

(Note, the skin must have an opening....it doesn't work if the splinter is totally under the skin.)

Verna

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:55 pm 
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Location: Unionville, TN, US
Remember that tile cutter you bought to renovate the kitchen floor with?

Well, it has a carbide wheel on it just like the handheld glass cutters.

Image
See ""


I mounted it to 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" ply beefup under the cutter. Score the bare wood before you use it on glass and fill the score with a dark line. When you need it mark your cutline on the glass and line up with the line on the beefup.

It takes a little getting used to as you can REALLY apply pressure with that big of a handle, but once you do it scores a straight line every time.

Another trick...

I had two mitre gauges after I upgraded. I was trying my hand at random pattern end grain cutting boards. While my trusty contractor saw does a fine job I wanted the joints as close to perfect as I could get. So I set one mitre gauge to cut to the left of the blade and the spare to cut to the right.

Image
See ""


Then no matter how far your blade is from 90, you simply cut the next piece on the opposite side of the blade. Alternating until you reach the end of that row.
Image
See "cutting board"


Nice tight joints!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Guroo,
I liked the first tip. Never thought about it but, I guess a cutter is a cutter! :-D
However you lost me on the second tip. Guess I just dont understand why you need two miter gagues to make the cuts match from one side of the blade to the other side. I think if you mark the tops of the boards and keep them in line as you cut, they would all fit nice and tight.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Rog

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