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 Post subject: Case lubes for firearms
PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:09 pm 
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There's a large number of lubricants on the market for firearms, and not all perform the same. So I figured that the shooters here would appreciate this test. I can't get Frog Lube locally, so tried out the Hornady One Shot lube. It made a significant difference (for the better) in all of my guns, in terms of trigger pull, action smoothness, and corrosion protection. I'd previously (for about 40 years) used Hoppes oil, but have since changed my mind.

None of these are intended to be used in the bore, only apply to moving parts that rub up against each other. The bore should always be dry. One of the advantages of the Hornady is that is dries quickly to a film which will not attract carbon or other contaminants, unlike petroleum based lubes which remain wet.

Here's the testing of 46 different products conducted by the author: http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/27 ... e-products

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Interesting Gene, I always used Hoppes on the bore too.........no wonder I am a terrible shot. :wink:

Back when I did Muzzleloading, I had a friend who used Bear Oil, which he said cam from bear fat. I always wondered if it was true and also if it would have salts in it that would ruin the metal.

Would you keep the bore dry even for longer term storage?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:42 pm 
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Hey, I thought oil threads were forbidden here! :twisted: :twisted:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:38 am 
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reelinron wrote:
Interesting Gene, I always used Hoppes on the bore too.........no wonder I am a terrible shot. :wink:

Back when I did Muzzleloading, I had a friend who used Bear Oil, which he said cam from bear fat. I always wondered if it was true and also if it would have salts in it that would ruin the metal.

Would you keep the bore dry even for longer term storage?


That would depend on how you define "long term", and under what conditions. A few months stored in your house is no big deal. Years in a unheated rent a shed is something else, and would require some serious preservation of the entire gun not just the bore - cosmoline for example.

In any case you should never shoot a gun with a wet bore - always dry it out with a couple dry patches first.

If you want, you should watch some (or all) of the videos here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwG-D0H ... vDCIcEPxUn , especially the 2 or 3 that talk about copper and lead fouling, cleaning, etc. (starts with #40 I think).

Rex is all about extreme long range shooting (over 1000 yds), but a lot of his advice pertains to any firearm/shooting.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 7:40 pm 
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I started out shooting in the late fifties and early sixties using sperm whale oil. Then switched to a mixture of lard and beeswax for the black powder guns , and G.I. gun oil for all others. But about four years ago I switched to Three In One oil on the advice of a friend who had just retired from special forces. And I find it does the job quite well on anything except the bore of black powder guns. I use it for storage in the bore as well, but always wash it out with alcohol before shooting.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:04 pm 
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Interesting videos Gene. My storage started out as seasonal, but it turned into a decade. My Mother also gave me a 22 that belonged to her father, my Grandfather. It is actually an old Sears rifle. I have no idea if it was cleaned when ever it was put away or not. Probably not worth anything except for sentimental value. First snowbound day I should give it a good cleaning.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Correction, the 22 Mom gave me is a Stevens Short or Long Rifle. It is a bolt action. No serial or model #.

Stevens Trademark REG US PAT & FGN (right side of rear sight)

22 SHORT-LONG
OR LONG RIFLE (left side of rear sight)

J. STEVENS ARMS COMPANY.
CHICOPEE FALLS. MASS. U.S.A. (top of barrel in front of rear sight)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:36 pm 
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Thats really interesting Gene, Thanks.
Eric


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 8:34 am 
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reelinron wrote:
Correction, the 22 Mom gave me is a Stevens Short or Long Rifle. It is a bolt action. No serial or model #.

Stevens Trademark REG US PAT & FGN (right side of rear sight)

22 SHORT-LONG
OR LONG RIFLE (left side of rear sight)

J. STEVENS ARMS COMPANY.
CHICOPEE FALLS. MASS. U.S.A. (top of barrel in front of rear sight)


This may help you with dating, etc. http://www.gunvaluesboard.com/firearms- ... s-323.html . The rifle had to have been made prior to 1960, since that's when the Chicopee plant closed. Also, the logo would place it sometime between 1920-1940.

As for $$ value, there's so many variables that I wouldn't even hazard a guess. Condition, all original or not, rarity, etc., etc.

Many of the pre-WWII .22's (and other calibers) were well made, reliable and accurate shooters. I have a Savage 6a (semi-auto, identical to the Stevens 87A) made between '38 and '41 that's a great little gun.

Image

Oh, PS: When you get around to cleaning, pay special attention to the bolt (firing pin, extractors). You may have to disassemble it, which can be a little tricky. Tiny little springs in the extractors that are easy to loose (DAMHIK), and replacement parts for these old guns are nearly impossible to find.

Model Number: This might be hidden under the stock on some part of the barrel or receiver. If you can find it, you can get a illustrated parts breakdown here: http://stevespages.com/stevens.html

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:49 am 
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Thanks Gene. After a long google event I found a pic that is my rifle. Unfortunately it does not have a model number. It's on my home computer and I will post it tonight. Now I am curious to how old it might be. Mom is 90 and Granddad would be 115 if alive. You never know where thread might lead you! :)

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 3:41 pm 
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Here's the pic link.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ste ... tedIndex=0

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