WWA Info Exchange

Is up!

So, when building a bookshelf with adjustable shelves, how do you cut the 'adjustment' system? Check out the poll for the possible answers...

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My "jig" is a piece of 1/4" pegboard.

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C J K
in beautiful -
Oxford GA, USA

I tend to make a template and then use a springloaded punch to mark the
center, then drill. If you u se the same template and flip it back to front (but not upside down) you will have very nice rock free adj shelves.

There is a great router jig designed by Jim Mattson (one of our venerable founders who make this place possible)
You can find it in the WWA Gazette. I built one and used it on a few big jobs and it is fast and extremely accurate. Go here to check it out

[/url]http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/4_23holejig.html[/url]

Tom,
When I vote in your poll I no longer get to see the results. the questions disappear and then nothing. It makes me sad...

Keep up the good work.
eric

Chuck said it all.

Duan

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Duan Packard
Kerrville, Texas

dum vivimus, vivamus

My jigs are rarely as accurate as machined jigs. This one from Lee Valley is awesome.

The two small units I have made, I just dadoed the side pieces for the two shelves I installed.

Wayne

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My father was my Mentor for my WW hobby. luv ya dad.

WW'ers I have met.
Guroo
Verna
Wooder
Paul, (brother,)
Falcon1.
Gene and his friend George

If you bore a hole into your wood base on your drillpress fence of the 5/8" size, for instance, then stub dowel it, you can move the desired distance to either side of center, clamp the base, then fence, bore and step to the pin ad nauseam. It becomes a great plunge router jig for sequence holes if you remember to hang it up.

Used the same idea to mortise the slat holes for the crib couple years back, so it even works as long holes.