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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 8:08 am 
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Location: Franklin, TN, USA
I just posted a problem on my table saw but I also have a situation with my bandsaw.
I'm building Tons of cabinets and trim for this whole house project. I have plenty of kiln dried white oak from my property. I have a Grizzly 17" anniversary addition 2 hp bandsaw. I have been trying to successfully resaw several lengths of 8 quarter X 6" by 6' planks. I installed a brand new 1" 3TPI carbide blade. Set the tension correctly. Adjusted all the guides and roller bearings. I have planned 2 edges to square and am using a tall fence. Still no matter what I do the blade nearly burns thru at a very slow feed rate and does not cut straight. I am frustrated. Any suggestion? And yes my moisture meter says 11%. Thanks for tour advice
Jim in Franklin, TN


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 9:03 am 
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Jimongee wrote:
I just posted a problem on my table saw but I also have a situation with my bandsaw.
I'm building Tons of cabinets and trim for this whole house project. I have plenty of kiln dried white oak from my property. I have a Grizzly 17" anniversary addition 2 hp bandsaw. I have been trying to successfully resaw several lengths of 8 quarter X 6" by 6' planks. I installed a brand new 1" 3TPI carbide blade. Set the tension correctly. Adjusted all the guides and roller bearings. I have planned 2 edges to square and am using a tall fence. Still no matter what I do the blade nearly burns thru at a very slow feed rate and does not cut straight. I am frustrated. Any suggestion? And yes my moisture meter says 11%. Thanks for tour advice
Jim in Franklin, TN


I'd suggest using a sled guided by the outboard miter slot, if you can, instead of the fence. I've had a similar problem (although shorter boards), and a simple homemade sled (much like you'd use for slabbing small logs) cured the problem. You'll need to set up some infeed/outfeed support stands to catch the long sled.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 10:11 am 
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Not trying to be smart but have you checked
that the blade is not on backward. (teeth pointing up)
DAMHIKT.

Duan

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 11:02 am 
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Thanks Gene, but if I use a sled it will also need a tall fence to support a 6" wide board. Wouldn't that be the same as my existing fence? Maybe I. Confused.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 4:21 pm 
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Jimongee wrote:
Thanks Gene, but if I use a sled it will also need a tall fence to support a 6" wide board. Wouldn't that be the same as my existing fence? Maybe I. Confused.


I was expecting that question :wink: . And it does seem that way, however the sled eliminates the problem of keeping the workpiece properly aligned with the blade in 3 dimensions. What you are dealing with is the natural tendency of the blade to take the path of least resistance. And you should run the wood thru "downhill" ( grain cathedral points last thru).

Of course the sled itself needs to be precise in all three dimensions throughout it's length, hence it must be adjustable. The workpiece can be attached to the sled fence with 2 sided carpet tape.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 12:05 pm 
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Thanks Gene. I will take your advice and see how it goes


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:49 pm 
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At the risk of starting the whole bandsaw drift issue, is your saw cutting straight and parallel to the miter track? Michael Fortune has a good writeup in Fine Woodworking (Nov/Dec 2004) on tuning your saw, but the big takeaway is that you can tweak the saw to cut straight with no drift. The key is getting the blade at the right point on the wheel. Start by centering the centerline of the blade at the peak of the crown. If the blade is too far forward (ie towards you), the saw will cut with end of the board away from you tilted to the right. Too far back gives the reverse. Adjust the saw tracking to get a straight cut. If you have it right, you can feed a board along the fence and the blade will sit in the middle of the kerf. It took me years to stumble on this advice and now my saw tracks just as it should. (I'm using a 1" 3 TPI bi-metal blade).

No matter what you do, resawing 6" or larger oak is going to be work. A carbide blade is removing a lot of wood, so it's going to take a while. Strange as it may seem, you may be better off with a bi-metal blade which takes a thinner cut.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:27 pm 
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Location: hawthorne, nj
Hi...i have the grizz 14 ultimate 4 many years. Without getting into your particulars pull up from youtube Snodgrass and how to adjust . Forget drift, forget sleds, forget fences...this guy will make ur saw sing. So many things are done wrong that he pointed out. I wud say always use a sharp clean blade. This presentation is a winner and should help.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 4:43 pm 
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DR beat me to it, but I would address the issue of blade drift first and foremost. Your fence has to be adjustable, of course, but most saws this size are.

Good luck - let us know what you find out.

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