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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:18 am 
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I know you shouldn't use oak in making a cutting board because the grain is open but does that include using the end grain?

Thank you
Jon

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:31 am 
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JPG wrote:
I know you shouldn't use oak in making a cutting board because the grain is open but does that include using the end grain?

Thank you
Jon


Yes. Especially red oak. See this: http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-ide ... s/red-oak/

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:12 pm 
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Not to ask a stupid question but can you plane end grain? Does it chip bad? As you can tell I have never done it and I haven't made an end grain cutting board before.

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Jon

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:49 pm 
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JPG wrote:
Not to ask a stupid question but can you plane end grain? Does it chip bad? As you can tell I have never done it and I haven't made an end grain cutting board before.

Thank you
Jon


If by 'can you plane' end grain you mean in a power planer, I'd say no. An emphatic no, in fact. Not to say it's not been done and done successfully but not worth trying in my book. That's just my humble opinion, of course. That said, a properly set up and sharp hand plane can be used somewhat effectively but if I had my druthers I'd opt for a belt sander, at least, and a drum sander as the best approach to flattening an end grain cutting board. Presuming from the title of the thread, that's where you're heading.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 4:01 pm 
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Thank Dennis. That's exactly where I am headed. Since I have never made one I am planning one it not being perfectly flat and I don't know the best way to flatten it. I am not the best with a belt sander and didn't think a thickness planer was a good choice. The cutting board will be 24x24 and I would like both sides to be as flat as possible.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 5:06 pm 
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JPG wrote:
Thank Dennis. That's exactly where I am headed. Since I have never made one I am planning one it not being perfectly flat and I don't know the best way to flatten it. I am not the best with a belt sander and didn't think a thickness planer was a good choice. The cutting board will be 24x24 and I would like both sides to be as flat as possible.


I hope you're not going to use oak for this. But beyond that, Dennis is right about planing. Best way to minimize the need to flatten after assembly is to make precise cuts, and allow the board to sit after glueup for a couple days - properly clamped with cauls - before attempting any flattening. Don't overdo the clamp force. I use a scraper to clean mine up.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 5:40 am 
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Low angle (bevel up) smooth plane will do the endgrain pretty well. Best to use a toothed blade for surfaces way out of whack, followed by full edge. The block plane, of which it is a giant cousin, was made for the job.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:43 pm 
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Red oak is like a bunch of straws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIXZ9iYM4PA

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 9:18 pm 
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Hey Guys,

I'll toss my 2ยข in and say that white oak makes very nice cutting boards. White oak is not porous like red oak, that's why it's used in casks made by wet coopers.

I also agree with NB George that you can plane end grain, and that a toothing plane is a good way to start. A high angle plane would also be a good idea, as would wetting the surface with some alcohol prior to planning.

All that said, I would prefer to use coarse grit on a drum sander if it's available. :wink:

Cheers,
Tom

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 1:03 pm 
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Thank you

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