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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:06 am 
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Location: Aurora CO
Awhile back, I'd built a series of target frames for the shooting classes I teach. They were nice, set up quick and pretty stable, but they took a lot of room in my truck and in the shed, and they are labor intensive and tough to repair when hit. A week and a half ago, I headed south to Colorado Springs to help my partner run a handgun workshop. He had small metal bases for his targets that took up very little space when stowed, and he also had a series of simulated walls for use on the range. These too could be disassembled and stowed in a relatively small space. He also had a movable target.
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I'm hoping to run one of these workshops up here in Aurora, but with my old target frames, my truck is pretty full. So I built these smaller bases with holes for a pair of 1X2s that I'll staple cardboard backers and paper targets when I get to the range. These will take up much less room in the truck and allow more space for my movable target cart and wall still to be built, but already designed, so there is more to follow.

These target bases are made from some of the original deck boards, redwood, from my deck that I'd replaced in 1993 shortly after we'd bought the house. These boards were living under the deck for over 20 years. While there was some rot, they were still in pretty good shape. Each base consists of 1 2X4X8', and 4 #8X4" deck screws. It don't get much cheaper than that.

Next will be my simulated wall.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:26 am 
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Nice, Frank.
They are easy to build and last quite some time ... and are easy to replace when worn.

One of the ranges near hear uses that same design.
The supports are butt-jointed rather than "lapped".
However, there is rebar pounded into the ground at various yardages that the supports slip over. These provide a bit of extra support to the entire structure especially on uneven ground.


It's great that you were able to utilize left over material to make these.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 9:41 am 
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Location: Hamilton, MS
Frank, what's your opinion on PVC pipe frames? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC4-K-h80JU

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 4:23 pm 
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Gene, I've priced out doing PVC and it's way too expensive. You figure that each frame will take:

1. 2 T's, 4 elbow's, about 10' of tube
OR
2. 2 T's, 2 elbow's, 2 caps or plugs and about 8' of tube.

depending on your design. I was looking at using 1X2's for the up rights and that would require 2" tubing and fittings. Most of the fittings are over a couple of bucks each and it was about 6 bucks for the tube. For 5 frames that would have put my cost in the neighborhood of $18 each and a total of nearly $90.

My costs on these wooden ones, about fifty cents in screws to do all 5. Plus these weigh more and will be more stable in the winds we get out here on the high plains.

PVC is great if you already have a bunch around or if you are only making a couple, but the cost builds quickly. Also, if you go that route, don't glue them up. If a part gets hit and breaks, you'll want to be able to replace the individual part, instead of having to replace the whole frame. Also, by not gluing, it makes it possible to fold the frame flat. If you fill the tubing with sand, you can get the weight of wood if conditions require.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 9:56 am 
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Quote:
If you fill the tubing with sand, you can get the weight of wood if conditions require.


IME this is the only redeeming quality of PVC.
Although I think it can be a bit heavier than wood (design depending).

It shatters spectacularly when struck and is expensive in the long run.

Three 2x4s comes in around $8-9 in my neck of the woods.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:14 am 
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DMoening wrote:
It shatters spectacularly when struck


I'm not a shooter, but this was my first thought. Could be fun to see, but expensive in the long run. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 2:51 pm 
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Location: Lake Burton in the NE Georgia Mountains
Well done Frank !!! Simple, cheap, portable and easy to replace. If you don't mind, I'd like to borrow your design. I've just recently replaced all of the decking on the topdeck of my boathouse and have a tremendous stack of 30 year old, pressure treated, 2" x 6" s and 2" x 8" s. Most only have a little bit of degradation or rot in a few spots, so there's a lot of salvageable wood to use. And I've been wondering what to do with it all. Been making firewood racks, and plan to do a 4 garbage can shed to keep the bears out of our trash. But I've still got lots left.

Thanks, and shoot straight.

Skyrider
aka soon to be target builder .....


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:46 pm 
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Ice Pirate wrote:
Gene, I've priced out doing PVC and it's way too expensive. You figure that each frame will take:

1. 2 T's, 4 elbow's, about 10' of tube
OR
2. 2 T's, 2 elbow's, 2 caps or plugs and about 8' of tube.

depending on your design. I was looking at using 1X2's for the up rights and that would require 2" tubing and fittings. Most of the fittings are over a couple of bucks each and it was about 6 bucks for the tube. For 5 frames that would have put my cost in the neighborhood of $18 each and a total of nearly $90.

My costs on these wooden ones, about fifty cents in screws to do all 5. Plus these weigh more and will be more stable in the winds we get out here on the high plains.

PVC is great if you already have a bunch around or if you are only making a couple, but the cost builds quickly. Also, if you go that route, don't glue them up. If a part gets hit and breaks, you'll want to be able to replace the individual part, instead of having to replace the whole frame. Also, by not gluing, it makes it possible to fold the frame flat. If you fill the tubing with sand, you can get the weight of wood if conditions require.


Kinda what I thought. Next question: Your professional opinion on the Hornady 135 gr 9mm Std Velocity Critical Duty ammo?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:43 pm 
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PM

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WWA'ers I've met: Popeye, Ed Avery, Stephen Wolf, Rockfish, Rodedon


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