WWA Info Exchange

Well I was gluing a side base molding on a piece of furniture and the molding was slightly bowed one way and the cabinet side slightly the other way, but I thought I had it covered. Dry clamped up ok...........then with the glue I reclamped and ended up with a gap.........not huge, but enough to frustrate me. Oh well, if that's the only mistake all is well.

On a positive note, the 2 haunch tenon doors glued up nicely. First time for the haunch tenon doors and boy do they feel strong. From now on it haunch tenon for me. Amazingly strong before they were glued.

ron

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"To all those who work come moments of beauty unseen by the rest of the world." Norman Maclean

I usually try to back cut my miter joints for just this reason.
The outside portion of the miter where the profile meets is the only visual element anyway.
Leaving wood behind it may cause the joint to push apart if the underlying structure is not dead flat/square/straight.
As none of my cabinets are ... I back but the joint to alleviate this issue.

It's always interesting to try new joinery techniques. There's a reason many of these methods have lasted over the centuries.

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~Dan.

Hey Guys,
These days, I cut 90% of my miters with a large 45º miter bit on the router table. Just lazy I guess.
Cheers,
Tom

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"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

I nee d to stop making base molding that runs across the sides of the carcass. I want to start making feet like Glen Huey does in his period furniture book. Each time I make something I add new stuff...............this time it was the haunch tenon doors. Next time better feet!

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"To all those who work come moments of beauty unseen by the rest of the world." Norman Maclean

Any tear out problems with that method?

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"To all those who work come moments of beauty unseen by the rest of the world." Norman Maclean

Hey Ron,
Not really, I always use a backing piece on a sled, and do the cross grain first.

Tom

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"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

How do you hold the workpiece when you do this? This afternoon I cut some test miters on a 45° bit and depending on whether I was climb or conventional cutting, the bit either pushed the stock away or pulled it into the bit. I was using a miter gauge in the slot to hold and guide the workpiece and found it nearly impossible to keep the stock from moving. (The miter gauge doesn't have a clamp). What's your process for guiding the workpiece? Do you adjust the fence so that it serves as a stop? Do you have clamp on your miter gauge?
Thanks

David

Don't know about anyone else, but I use a sacrificial face with 80 grit paper glued on it, on my miter gage when doing this kind of stuff. The 80 grit keeps the piece from moving when handheld.

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I bring to life, I bring to death:
The spirit does but mean the breath:
I know no more. (Tennyson, In Memoriam)

haunch tenon?? What are the chances of a picture of this joinery technique? Or a tutorial?

YANK: A really good, in my opinion, explanation of and about "haunch tenons " can be found at AMERICAN WOODWORKER and search for haunch tenon at their site. There is an article from 2007 I believe that has excellent detail. HTH

You can also just GOOGLE " American Woodworker haunch tenon" and get to that article

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Everything was new once.
newtooth 311
Rochester, MN

Gary Rogowski covers these in his Joinery book in considerable detail. But if you don't have it, I guess that won't do you much good.

_________________
I bring to life, I bring to death:
The spirit does but mean the breath:
I know no more. (Tennyson, In Memoriam)

Gene, your not much help. LOL, hope u had a great Christmas. Wayne

Thank you Newtooth, very good article and illustration.

Well you could just drive up to my place and read it.

_________________
I bring to life, I bring to death:
The spirit does but mean the breath:
I know no more. (Tennyson, In Memoriam)