WWA Info Exchange

I was making cutting boards yesturday and I used the titebond 2 glue with the blue writing on the bottle for my glue ups will the boards be ok as long as the person that uses them does not soak the board in water. For simple cleaning they need to wash with water and then dry right away. I will use food grade mineral oil on them for a finish. Also for a trivet(hot pot holder) What would you use to finish it with.

I'm not sure about Titebond II holding up to water but, Titebond III is suppose to be water proof. I know that it dries to a tan/brown color but I think it would be more trustworthy.
As to the trivet, I would just use oil of some type. Mineral oil or maybe BLO or even some other penetrating oil. Again they should not be soaked in water but I'm afraid any hard finish will wear off with use and just look bad after awhile.
Just my dos centavos worth.

Rog

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Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

Wife has a couple of my boards that I used TBII for. They see daily use for the past 4 years with no problems.

PS: Emmet's Elixir is popular if you want to spend the money. Or you can mix up your own with about 95% mineral oil, 5% beeswax, and a couple drops of Rosemary oil and Citral to make it smell good.

Here's the site and link to the MSDS.

http://mapleblock.com/detail/msds-sheets-40/

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I bring to life, I bring to death:
The spirit does but mean the breath:
I know no more. (Tennyson, In Memoriam)

We have several cutting boards I made some years back using Titebond II and they are just fine. We wash them with soap and water but do not put them in the dishwasher. You might look at the TItebond web site and see what they have to say.

I do not use finish on the trivets. If they get dirty etc. a little sand paper works wonders.

Bill

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Amateur Bill
O'Fallon, MO
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I'm in shape, round is a shape.

I have a board glued up with plain old Elmers next to my sink that has been there 20 some years. I do believe that having rubber feet on the bottom so that it never sits on a wet counter is key. Air circulates all around it.

Also, I never put in into water or the dish washer.

If I need to wash it, I just wipe it with a soapy dish rag and quick rinse it, followed by a quick dry with a paper towel.

I coated mine with cooking oil which I now know is a no no.

The last several I made as gifts I used salad bowl finish which works well. The only problem with this finish is you need to give it some time for the smell to fade.

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No such thing as a food-grade mineral oil. It's not a food. There is a pharmaceutical grade. Mineral oil is sold to irritate the colon and give you the runs. Sort of like bacteria on the board will, especially if they're protected from casual rinsing by the oil. Leave the board naked. It'll be "finished' with tallow later. Wipe with detergent so you can kill the bacteria. It will also emulsify and wash away the mineral oil. Make two boards, easily distinguishable from one another, using one for food which will be cooked, one for food which will not, and avoid cross-contamination.

I've got trivets Pa made thirty years ago in use here. Oak with BLO.

2 things here...detergent will not kill bacteria the only thing that will when wiping down cutting boards is a solution of water and bleach (this is what the health dept recommends...
Also there is a big difference between a trivet and a cutting board..using 2 boards is only needed when cutting meat such as chicken and then beef or bread items a quick wipe with Bleach/water mixture takes care of any bacteria...
Ron

Detergent will emulsify the hydrophobic exterior and lyse the bacterial cell walls in the lab. Should on the board as well. Bleach (commercial cut 1/10) is a great choice for naked boards. Won't cut grease or lyse lipid walls if you use mineral oil.