WWA Info Exchange

Does anyone have any experience, suggestions, etc. about tool sharpening
systems? Birthday coming up and SWMBO was looking at my Grizzly catalogue for a gift for me.
They have a 8" & 10" wet grinder/sharpener with several extra attachments that can add up to a lot of cash.
I was also looking at the Work Sharp system.....also expensive.
I have been using a bench top belt sander with poor results. Mostly
I sharpen turning tools and chisels.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

George (aka MightyMite)

I use a Veritas Mk II jig - http://www.veritastools.com/products/Page.aspx?p=144 and it works well for me for chisels and plane blades. Will work with a stone or with paper if you are a fan of the "scary sharp" method. Don't do any turning so I can't comment.

Welcome George, glad you found us.

For turning I would get a Wolverine jig and a slow speed grinder (1725 RPM). Here is my set up.


See "Grinder 01"

As for chisels I use water stones and others the scary sharp method (sandpaper on a flat surface) it's a personal preference thing.

One thing I will say is is that I don't use the same setup for both.

Now show us some of your work, we like pictures.

_________________
Jeff

If man made it, I can fix it.
If God made it we can pray for it.

Lessons I have learned:
NEVER MAKE ANYTHING OUT OF TEAK
Always remove the zero clearance insert before you tilt the blade DAMHIKT

Unless you abuse those chisels heavily, most of your work can be done on good stones. A jig is handy to maintain square. I have the LV jig and diamond/Arkansas to work mine. With the exception of the 25mm which hit the floor, my chisels haven't seen the grinder in years. When they did, to be fair, I used the Makita I use for planer/jointer knives. Beautiful wet stone.

Tool steel and odd shapes make the wheel the best choice for turning tools. You don't need shaving sharp, because you're usually shearing with the lathe providing the power. Besides, the grain changes so many ways in turnings that you can't get shiny carving surfaces even with a carving quality edge. 100 grit stone and a light touch.

I use a Work sharp for chisles but for turning tools I'm with Jeff, a wolverine jig and a slow speed grinder. It works great.

Oh, and Welcome Aboard Mate, happy to have you join in the fun.

_________________
Frank
WWACOAUX#1
"I love the smell of Sawdust in the morning, it smells like, victory."
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I have one of those Work Sharp 2000s for rough grinding, then use DMT diamond stones for honing... I like to sharpen freehand, but a jig is always useful!

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My sharpening method is similar to Jeff's

I use a slow speed grinder/wolverine jig for my turning tools -- the edge is easy, fast, and plenty sharp for them.

For my chisels and plane irons, I use a wet-grinder (jet, with Tormek jigs) to create a hollow bevel and then freehand a micro bevel (it is easy because of the hollow grind) The wet grinder is also quite useful for scissors, ours (and the neighbors', and our friends') kitchen knives.

I tried using the wet grinder for my turning tools, but just found it a bit slow and found myself not sharpening my tools as much-- which defeated the purpose in my mind. Your mileage may vary

Hope this helps
Lawrence

I second Lawrence's choice of sharpening tools I have the same.

_________________
I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor

When I started turning all I had for a grinding wheel was an arbor with a well used and worn wheel of who knows what grit powered by a reclaimed washing machine motor. I had no idea whatsoever how to sharpen a fingernail grind bowl gouge nor most of the other turning tools.

I opted for a Tormek wet grinder because 1)there are fixtures available that make it almost idiot proof (after all, I get a pretty decent edge) and 2) the slow wet wheel posed no threat of overheating from my usual heavy handedness in most things I do. I have no regrets and would certainly encourage you to look at it with only one reservation: Bring Money!

I see now there is an almost identical grinder being offered from Grizzly and another one, don't recall the mfr., that's very similar.

I get a lot of ribbing from a few folk in my turning club about the amount of time it takes to set up and grind an edge with the Tormek. I submit that this is not the case. It takes me no longer to set up the jig than it does the other folk with the Wolverine jig. The only thing faster than either one is freehand grinding. Once the prefered profile is achieved on t he tool, it takes very little grinding to touch it up to super sharp.

Skews, scrapers and parting tools, I don't think it takes more time to set up for sharpening them with one of the other.

I like to freehand grind some tools from time to time but I would urge you to get some mentoring on the subject. Find a turners' club in your area. You can find associate member clubs through the AAW website. You'd be amazed at how willing and able these folks are to share their knowledge.

The major difference as I see it between the various sharpening jigs on the market is how much money you're willing to part with. The wood really has no preference in how the edge that cuts it was produced. Only that it's well done.

It's a bit of a dilema since I think the Tormek is overpriced but the Grizzly is made in China.

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

"It's a bit of a dilema since I think the Tormek is overpriced but the Grizzly is made in China."

It´s very true Tormek is pricey. BUT, I still use my old Tormek everyday, and my dad bought it 1978! The old sand stone is changed to a baked one - otherwise its in original shape and still performing as a dream.
/Anders

Whilst browsing the net today I found this advert of a bastard wet sand stone converted to be used with Tormek jigs.
At first I laughed but then I realised that this one can be a real competitor
to the Tormek. If I only had one of one of these big sandstones I would seriously try to mock up a a stand and a bar for the excellent Tormek jigs.
One huge advantage with a big stone is that the edge wont be as hollow as with the Tormek, so is the case especially when the Tormek stone is worn down to 210 mm mark..
The Tormek jigs are superb and fits Sheppach machines and some other clones I ve seen on the market. So it must be feasible to mock up a hybrid of your own, with some ingenuity and common sense.
Maybe some of you have already converted some stones to look like the one I post here?
/Andersjustincase

See "tormekknockoff"