WWA Info Exchange

Lots of good answers here. Two other things: bronze screws are stronger than brass and look similar, and making the pilot hole just a little bit larger can make the screw go in much more easily and still hold pretty well.

Ok I found some soap and dug out the brace I have but could not find bits for it. I do have two Yankee screwdrivers, one large, one smaller, and a bunch of bits for them. I tried one of the Yankee bits in the brace and while it fits and holds ok there is no tang so a tight screw will probably spin the bit in the brace. Anyway I tried it and it worked well, not a power tool but close enough. It's done, put a finish on it yesterday.

_________________
Paul G
"To the last I grapple with thee, from heqq's heart I stab at thee, for hates sake I spit my last breath at thee."

Shun those studies in which the work that results dies with the worker.
-- Leonardo da Vinci

CONGRATS, PAUL!!!!! You did it!!!!

OK, now where are the pics??? (You knew someone had to ask that )

Verna

To prevent cam-out and the subsequent stripping of Phillips heads, dip the end of the bit in fine valve grinding compound. Works like a charm. Also useful for removing stuck screws. Works great with an impact driver too.

In my former life, I drove and removed #24 x 3-1/2" screws in bowling lanes, many of which had screwed up heads from the previous mechanic. With the compound I never had to drill one out!

_________________
Dick
Member SAPFM

Thanks for the reminder Dick. I KNEW THAT AND JUST FORGOT!!!
When I was selling tools, we had some stuff called "Grab-it Screw Grip" (part number G400) it is basicly "valve grinding compound" but, it works like magic!!!
I don't know if you can even buy valve grinding compound at a auto parts store anymore. No one except racers even bother to grind valves these days with all the new metal compounds used for valves.
Anyway if anyone is intrested in trying it, just chase down the next 'Mac Tools' truck and ask the distrubitor if he has any or will order it for you. It is not all that expensive and comes in a 5 oz. bottle. Just right for no more than you will use it.
It DOES WORK for either removing stubborn screws or installing screws where damage might occur.

Rog

_________________
Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

Thanks for the tip!
Never heard that before, old dog, new trick thing.

_________________
Sean

Countin' flowers on the wall,
that don't bother me at all,
smokin' cigarettes and watchin' Captain Kangaroo,
Now don't tell me I've nothin' to do.

Second recipient of the D'oh Award. 4-13-08

Yes Dick that is a great tip and I've used it to remove screws many times in the past but I won't do it when installing screws because I don't want to leave and oily grit behind and possible stain the wood with it.

_________________
Paul G
"To the last I grapple with thee, from heqq's heart I stab at thee, for hates sake I spit my last breath at thee."

Shun those studies in which the work that results dies with the worker.
-- Leonardo da Vinci

I'm a little late with this but the computer was down for almost 3 months and just the other day was made useable. There are screws that are far better than philips or square head, they are star head They can still be striped out but not near as easily as either of the other two. When ever possible I won't use anything but the star headed screws. The driver doesn't slip out of the head, so much safer also. Also if you use many a new bit comes with the 5 pound box. Try these and you will never go back to the philips or square.

Don,
Those 'star head' screws are called TORX head and are used quite a bit on cars and trucks. You are right, they don't strip out very easy at all but, the draw back for me is all the various sizes that they come in.
I used to sell tools to the auto techs in shops and I can tell you that torx drive come in sizes from #6, 8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 40, 45, 50, 55, and even 60! And then they came out with what they call 'TAMPER PROOF TORX' OF THE SAME SZES!!! It used to drive the guys MAD but, they made alot of money for me. I understand that they now have sizes even smaller than #6 now for electronics.
I think they were orginaly made to get rid of the shade mechanics and people who do their own work on various things.
I bought a new Ford van in 1986 and when I wanted to change an outside mirror on it, I had to buy a T45 bit to do it!! In fact, that was my first buy from a 'MAC' truck and I later bought the WHOLE TRUCK and went into business!!!!

Rog

_________________
Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

Tapper drill bit for the right screws? I have used # 4 flat head 1" long brass screws with no problems.. Go to a slotted head maybe. Make sure your driver bit is the right size to fit the screw. Go easy with brass, turn your screw in and out slow it will work beter for you..
Please don't go there

For brass screws I always use bees wax, and on small ones I use a steel screw, then a brass screw with the wax on both.

Epoxy?? A couple of posts mention it.... is it a way of rescuing a stripped screw head?????

_________________
Mike

I m with tom on this, taper drill of the same size screw.
I use brass #4 3/4 long and they are small. Some turn off if i drive
them to hard. Bronze screws are harder and will last just as long.
Maybe use stainless steel ??? If your concern is rust?
Later