WWA Info Exchange

I am converting an old roll top 5 1/4" floppy disk box into a router bit box. Simple enough to do by adding a chunk of maple that can be removed to add more holes for more bits, gotta have more bits right.

Well the finish is a water based poly made by (sold by) Ace Hardware here in MN. The second coat was almost perfect coverage but added a third and it has "fish-eyes" I think is the autobody term. A round circle that forms a slight crater or dip and it's uniform like the natural leveling process isn't happening. So I sanded them out and did a 4th coat and they are worse. The varnish is less than a year old and the can is over half full so it's not a shelf life issue. I took a pic but have never added one before.

I am stumped ........ all the coats were applied the same way like all those before.

MN PINE: What was your between coats regime? Did you thoroughly wipe down the finish before the next coat? What was your wiping medium?

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Everything was new once.
newtooth 311
Rochester, MN

MNPine,

Fisheyes is a correct term in the auto refinishing business, so much so that they make fisheye remover you can add to the paint mix.

Anyway, back to your problem, most fisheyes are caused by dust particles, silicone, oils, even finger prints.

As Newtooth mentions, cleaning between coats is imperative, also, I think the finish might be a bit old. Hope this helps.

Take Care,
Carlos

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Be Happy!

If you used a purchased "tack rag" you may have rubbed too hard. Tack rags have wax and solvents in them and may leave a film of wax on the surface that wont let the finish adhear correctly. They are great for picking up dust for cleaning at the start but, don't do too well on a finished surface between coats.

Rog

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Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

You have a contamination problem. Sand with 220, wipe down with naptha and mist on a couple of coats of de-waxed shellac. Spray cans are ok. Use non-stearated paper. some coatings are vert sensitive to the stearate soaps.

After the shellac dries, scuff sand with 220 od 400 and apply your top coats. If you are brushing on the finish, use a new brush. The contamination may be in the brush.

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Dick
Member SAPFM

Could be contamination problem, so wipe with a solvent like paint thinner. That'll clear grease, wax and oil.

Could also be that you have done a poor job trying to "tooth" the surface. The coat must find mechanical purchase on the one below , or the cohesion of the finish will be greater than its adhesion to the surface, and it'll draw back from slick areas just as if they were contaminated. So use the C320/P400 and scuff the surface uniformly between coats then wipe with a damp rag.

I'll have to do a better job cleaning and try a new brush I guess.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I should have stopped at 2 coats it's only a bit box after all.