WWA Info Exchange

I'm making something like a street sign with cedar letters (3" tall, 3/16 thick) glued to pine or birch board. Planning to pre-finish both (w/ Sikkens clear) before gluing letters to board to avoid sure mess of puddles.

What to glue with? Assuming wood glue is out b/c wood fibers coated. Could do epoxy, but was hoping for something that wouldn't involve mixing. Any brilliant (or not-so-brilliant) ideas??
Tx, Mike

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Mike

This sounds like it might be a suitable candidate for brass or stainless steel screws. Counter sink and glue plugs in to cover the heads if you don't want them to show.

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I bring to life, I bring to death:
The spirit does but mean the breath:
I know no more. (Tennyson, In Memoriam)

lay out your letters take any necessary measurements/ lines you need to.

remove letters put down blue or green masking tape on the pine or birch board, place letter over blue or green masking tape use a sharp knife of your choosing (x-acto)

cut out letter remove waste apply clear coat.

remove tape (stencil) apply glue to letters place on your board.

snug as a bug, no finish to hamper adhesion

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Mango
The land some where in the middle
20 47 00N -156 26 00W

I think Mango responded more directly to your question, but I would agree with Gene that a mechanical fastening would be my choice for an exterior exposure for this project. If for design or whatever reasons, the only option is gluing, I've had great success with the polyurethane (Gorilla, et al) glues. They truly are waterproof in my experience. But they're messy - use sparingly to avoid billows of foam squeezing out of the joints.

There are other glues that are essentially impervious to the elements but they are, to my limited knowledge, two part systems. Your question spec expressed a desire to avoid mixing.

Can the letters be attached to the background from the backside?

And like Gene says, use SS or brass hardware. Your street sign will last forever.

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Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

TExcellent suggestions, as usual several I hadn't thought of....

Mech fastener, & fr back, very possible as sign itself is resawed to 3/8.

Tape + t-bond 3 , like that too. Dennis, I did consider poly glue but concerned about the movement you mentioned. What are other mixer types? I can't rule out anything.
Tx all for taking the time!

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Mike

Since you have now asked about mixable glues, here is the stuff I have found to be the best. 100 % waterproof, holds like the name implies, and doesn't creep. But I would still use Mango's method to bond wood to wood not wood to paint.

Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue

HERE is the stuff on Amazon.

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C J K
in beautiful -
Oxford GA, USA

Not to hijack Mike's thread but Chuck, what's been your experience with the open time for the Weldwood Plastic Resin?

Thanks
Tom

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T-n-T

Not a hijack Tom - I have the same question. Also, is this stuff better than epoxy? And, based on the container size/cost, it looks more economical.

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Mike

I have used this stuff for over 25 years. Here are some of my experiences:

It is a powder that is mixed with water to form the adhesive. The powder has a shelf life of about 1 to 2 years.

Pot Life/Open time 3 to 5 hours has been my experience. Clamp time, I clamp overnight. I think you need at least 8 hours clamp time. For gluing I like it better than epoxy but that is only my opinion.

I have used it in total immersion as well as washing exposure and NEVER had a failure.

Warnings -
1. It is dark in color.
2. With care it can be used for lamentations without the glue showing. I have used it with oak, have not tried it with maple.
2. It can be messy if you are not careful but many fillers can be used to "thicken" the glue.

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C J K
in beautiful -
Oxford GA, USA

Hey Miker,

As far as I'm concerned, Gene's answer is the only one that will work over time. Remember, you are planning to glue wooden letters to a wooden base. The expansion and contraction of the wood in an outdoor environment will either overcome the glue joint, or cause the wood to check and split, eventually disintegrating.

If it were my project, I would fasten the letters with screws through over sized holes in the base, so that both base and letters are free to move. In order to ensure longevity, I would bed the letters in a marine bedding compound, such as Dolphinite™, or Boatlife™.

Good luck,
Tom

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"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

You could also use 3M 4200 glue. It is certified for use below the waterline on boats. It's very easy to use but you will never get the letters off the sign again in this lifetime.

Hey PK,

I thought about 3M 4200, or 5200, but since both the letters and the backboard are wood, and the grains could easily be opposing, I thought that the letters would probably suffer. The 3M marine adhesives are very flexible, but unless you bed the letters in a pretty thick layer, they're going to check eventually.

Tom

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"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

. He Ki g let e rs w at p rob e m c ul d th t ca s e?

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Mango
The land some where in the middle
20 47 00N -156 26 00W

Hey, Mango! I"m gettin' a little worried about you!

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Uncle Fester WWAMDAUX#3
La Plata, Maryland
Does Anyone Have A Comb?
Home Of A Beautiful DJ 20
I Say.... BUY DELTA!!
10,000 posts--Easter Sunday, 2008--7:43pm

Not sure what kind of glue you're using, Mango, but I recommend more ventilation.

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Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis