WWA Info Exchange

I like to use Minwax Golden Oak stain (oil based) on my Oak wood, the problem is after I apply the stain and let it set a minute or two and wipe off the extra to the color I want. The stain will start to leach out of the wood causing dark spots. I then have to continually wipe the wood to remove the spots for about ½ hour until the leaching is done. I never had this happen before, is this bad batch of stain or what? I had this can of stain for about 2 years and for the last year this problem has happened. Any ideas?

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I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor

Pilot, I have had the same thing happen. I have been putting on a coat of #1 cut shellac before the stain and the problem has improved greatly. I think the shellac keeps the stain from penetrating as much, therefore not as much to leech.

I'm sure someone will be along to give you there ideas.

Bill

P.S. Nice to see you posting again.

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Amateur Bill
O'Fallon, MO
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If a man speaks in the forest, and no woman hears him, is he still wrong?

I'm in shape, round is a shape.

Tom, as I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong in my explanation), oak's fibers are like tubes or straws. The stain goes into the tubes and then as the stain dries, it drains from the tubes.

This same thing happens with my baskets that I make from red oak. I have to wipe them down periodically for at least 24 hours after staining.

On other projects, I do use a 1# cut of shellac first to seal the oak before staining so I don't have the draining. As Bill mentioned, this does cut down on the draining.

Hope this helps.

Verna

I have had the same problem with Lyptus. Not with every batch, just some. Only thing to do is keep wiping every hour or so until it stops. I haven't tried shellac first but I will next time.

I see dark rings around the pores where the bubbles pop as confirmation that the effect is in the other direction. The bubbles blow larger before popping.

Oak was filled when it was used for furniture for this very reason. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/F ... grain.html

I was contacted by Minwax about this problem and this is what Minwax said to me.

From your description what you're experiencing is oak bleed back. Bleed
back generally occurs when resins, inherent in the wood, migrate to the
wood surface. The resin actually migrates upwards through capillary
action. This is not likely mildew or mold growth as our products do not
contain materials which attract such substances (i.e. water). They do not,
however contain materials that prohibit the growth, so if the piece was
kept in a dark, warm and damp area mold or mildew spores may have settled.
This is not likely, however.

After staining, particularly after staining oak wood, you may experience
bleed back of stain. An organic compound found in oak wood types, called
"Tannin", which reacts with stain, may cause bleed back. This type of
stain bleed back can be handled two ways:

1.) If you experience bleed back, it will likely occur within the first
hour of applying an oil-based stain (Example -: Minwax Wood Finish,
Minwax Gel Stain) and/or a penetrating oil finish (Examples - Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique Oil Finish, or Danish Oil). Immediately
wipe the droplets with a clean, lint-free cloth to prevent droplets from
drying. Continue to do so until the bleed back stops. It may take
several wipe downs to fully exhaust the bleeding. Try wiping the
surface pure mineral spirts or paint thinner if the areas feel sticky or
tacky. This should do the trick. If it keeps bleeding, keep wiping
until it stops. You may even want to try using Minwax Antique
Furniture Refinisher or Formby's Furniture Refinisher which contain some
stronger solvents like acetone. This may help expedite the process for
you.

2.) If the droplets have dried in the finish, within 24 hours after
applying stain, apply the same stain using medium steel wool. This
buffing process should remove the streaks. If the buffing does not
remove the streaks and/or 24 hours after applying the stain, rub the
surface with medium steel wool moistened with Minwax Antique Furniture
Refinisher or Formby's Furniture Refinisher. Here again it may take
several wipe downs to exhaust the stain bleeding.

Air or water molecules trapped within the wood pores, which push stain
back, or dust in pores, which keeps stain out, may also cause bleed back.
Although there is nothing which can be done to completely prevent this from
happening, steps can be taken to minimize its effects. Here are a few
steps to minimize this type of bleed back:

1.) Prior to staining, wood should first be acclimated. To acclimate
wood, it should be stored at room temperature for a minimum of 24 hours.
Allow air to move freely around each piece of wood, enabling the wood to
adjust to proper temperature and humidity levels appropriate for
staining and finishing.

NOTE: Bleed back is a natural process predominantly seen in oak wood, or
other oily species.

I hope this helps other WWers

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I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor

I stoped using minwax stains. IMHO there are much better products out there, M L Cambell and Bartleys for example. Gel stains usually work better than wiping stains. Try different brands to see what you like.