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 Post subject: Using fillers w/epoxy
PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 4:52 pm 
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Duan's query re his oak burl got me wondering, again. When one uses filler with epoxy for such as filling voids in timbers, etc., I never seem to remember ... do you add the filler to the resin before adding the catalyst or can you add the filler to the resin/catalyst mixture?

BTW - I also use the West System pump setup but I find that the catalyst turns an orange-ish brown after some time. It still seems to set up and cure OK but certainly isn't suited for clear or transparent patches.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:00 pm 
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Hey Dennis,

It's generally best to mix the epoxy first, and then add the filler/pigment. The reason is that you don't want anything to interfere with the thorough mixing of the epoxy.

Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:26 pm 
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yes, mix the epoxy then add. for color I use powder paints, a little goes a ways when added, usually mixing black and brown. You can also mix in some dust from your ros to form a paste if you need to bridge gaps. Made some boats years ago.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 2:19 pm 
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I mix the epoxy first too and have never had any issue of any kind.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:14 pm 
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Same thing everyone else said. Just a heads up on using wood flour (like from a sander). Epoxy will make it a LOT darker than what you might think.

I used cedar flour (in epoxy) and some Durham's Rock putty and came up with various results. You can also use tempera poster paints and experiment that way.

Another heads up on epoxy pumps. You can't always trust them. Pumps can and do burp air. There goes any hope of accurate mix. I marked oz. levels on the side of a plastic translucent beer glass and set another on inside to actually hold the epoxy and filled up to a given measured mark. Works every time. That way your cup with the oz. markings never gets dirty.

For very small batches use these little cups that come with cough medicine etc. They have markings on them and when you're done there's no clean up.

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Last edited by tim eastman on Sat May 01, 2010 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:21 pm 
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tim eastman wrote:
.........................

For very small batches use these little cups that come with cough medicine etc. They have markings on them and when you're done there's no clean up.


I have about a zillion little food sample cups that my wife would have left over from when she worked at various stores doing demo's a few years ago. They are great for this kind of thing. I should run out about 2060. :wink: :D

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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 2:05 am 
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Scotman wrote:
I mix the epoxy first too and have never had any issue of any kind.



deetoe :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 11:06 am 
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When Epoxy is past it's prime it will turn a redish/brown. You can still use it for non-structural stuff, just build any boats with it. :D

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:20 am 
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Jeff Fox wrote:
When Epoxy is past it's prime it will turn a redish/brown. You can still use it for non-structural stuff, just build any boats with it.


Not to worry, Jeff. There are no life/death issues associated with any of my work! (hehehe) As long as it gets hard that's all I ask of it.

As an experiment today I mixed a bunch of maple plane shavings with epoxy and intend to see what it looks like when turned on the lathe.

OK, NPDH I get the message but no, it hasn't happened yet!

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