WWA Info Exchange

I have aquired a large oak burl which I have sliced up into a bunch of large 8"x12" approx pcs.



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Here are some individual pcs. Wet to show grain.



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The idea is to use them as tops for small boxes like this;



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Still with me??

The question is what to do about the voids and inclusions in the burls. I know about using CA glue to freeze the loose or maybe loose pcs but what about the holes, openings.

Fill with ??? what
Leave open??
Or??

Would appreciate suggesions.

Duan

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Duan Packard
Kerrville, Texas

dum vivimus, vivamus

Filling the voids would be tough without it looking like a patch job, I think. I'd leave them natural or maybe fill with a clear acrylic filler if you want get them level with the surrounding wood. They are part of the "character" of the wood after all.

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I've seen some voids filled with epoxy. Some even with tiny bits of tourquoise mixed in.

Of course, you'll have to figure out how to keep the epoxy in the through and through holes.

Just my random thoughts.

Verna

I think Scotman does this quite often with mesquite. He uses masking tape to keep it from leaking IIRC

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John

To fill through voids with epoxy, you just apply packing tape to the underside to act as a dam. Fill the void and allow to cure. Remove the tape and plane and sand both sides smooth and flush. It works great. West Systems epoxy is probably the best, but for small voids I've just used a medium to thick CA Glue. Thin CA works well to stabilize the wood in punky areas and is also a good sealer before filling with epoxy.

I too would keep it clear instead of dyeing. Clear makes it look almost like a pool of water in the wood, as you can see through it, and really adds to the chariter of the wood.

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Frank
WWACOAUX#1
"I love the smell of Sawdust in the morning, it smells like, victory."
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Packing tape makes more sense. Masking tape might be a little porous. Apparently, I couldn't recall correctly

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John

Fill with layers of bark. Looks very natural. Stick pieces in the open area and then to each other - do not flood them to make a single pool of clear adhesive. Make sure it's dry before use.

Tape dams are a tactic regularly used by turners for unnatural fills. Secure a piece of plastic soda bottle over the spot if it's a big one. Saves a bunch on contour sanding.

Hey Duan,

I agree with the epoxy fix. I would use WEST System, if you can get it. I would also use a black pigment to color the epoxy. WEST System sells a graphite powder, but in my opinion, it is not black enough. Only a black pigment will really look right. It is virtually impossible to match the variable and eventually changing color of the wood. If you match it perfectly now, in a couple of years of light exposure, it will no longer match the surrounding wood. Black works.

Your other option is a distinct contrast, like Verna said, with turquois. Here is a bow that I built my god-daughter awhile back, with some checked mesquite that Scotman sent me. I mixed equal portions by volume of epoxy and turquois chips.


Let me know if you have trouble using up that burl.

Good luck,
Tom

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Mohandas K. Ghandi

Another tip which most people don't know is that you can use artist ACRYLIC paint to tint the epoxy with. (Acrylic, NOT oil paints) You can get a bunch of color variations that way even to the point of matching the surrounding wood tones.

Just mix up a bit of the colors you want on a sheet of paper and add to the mixed epoxy/hardener before use. It doesn't even slow down the cure time.

Nice burl.

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