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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:39 pm 
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Location: Atlanta,GA
It's not one of those fancy workworking benches. Just an industrial maple top workbench- steel legs and frame, 1 1/2" top. Getting sort of funky from various things being spilled on it and wiped up for a few years.

I am currently scraping off with what's left on top with a card scraper. Then I can sand it or maybe not sand. Afterwards I need to put something on to preserve it.

Spar varnish? Danish oil? Watco whatever oil? Polyurethane? I would appreciate some suggestions from the more experienced woodworkers

Thanks,
Richard


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:47 pm 
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Wax, just to keep glue from sticking. Otherwise nothing.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:52 pm 
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I agree with Gene-- I use Johnson's paste wax on my worksurfaces (and clamps) and it works well

Lawrence


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:52 pm 
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Richard - I would concur that no finish is needed other than a couple coats of wax. When my bench was new I put on two coats of Waterlox on both sides of the top just to seal the pores a bit then wax. Not a lot will stick to it, and what does pops right off with a scraper.

Remember, it's a workbench, not fine furniture; the finish is going to take a beating, that's what it's for.

Doug


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Call me crazy but I took Bob Smalser's advice and used BLO .... one coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month and one coat a month for a year.
I love my bench and have no doubt it will serve my grandson and his son as well as it has served me. I've planed the surface flat once
( http://web.mac.com/don2laughs/iWeb/PawP ... Bench.html about 2 years ago) since the original surface/finishing. I applied one coat a day for one week after that re-surfacing.
good luck,
Don


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 Post subject: Lin seed oil
PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:40 pm 
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I use linseed oil and turpentine, 50%/50% mix on the worktop benches in school. It hardens in contact with the air. Smells nice too! At least I think so..
On top of that I sometimes use candle wax.

/Anders


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:11 am 
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I've heard good things about a BLO/mineral spirits mix and just plain wax... either way, you are good to go.

Just avoid any film-building finishes like the plague. They are slicker than a mambo band when they are new and break down over time with all that work being done on them.

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 Post subject: Johnsons Wax It Is
PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:30 pm 
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Thanks for the advice. I gave it a good coat of paste wax and let it dry for a day before wipeing it down.

It feels nice and smooth. Question is, I mentioned it is used for a lot more than woodworking. I wonder what it will do when I spill some Citrasolve on it.

By the way what is BLO?

Richard


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 Post subject: Re: Johnsons Wax It Is
PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:54 pm 
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richardk wrote:

By the way what is BLO?

Richard


Boiled Linseed oil - it's not really boiled anymore but has hardeners in it to help it cure faster than "unboiled" (just plain) linseed oil

It is a pretty standard "oil" finishing supply - in other words you can get it in quarts and even gallons at your local hardware store and do not need to go through a specialist store. Even my local Ace carries it and it is cheap and is nice to mix with poly for a "oil/varnish" mix

Hope this helps
Lawrence


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