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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:54 am 
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Last fall I hooked up with a taxidermist neighbor friend and he asked me to make some base plates for him to mount his work on. Will I made several types of rounds and ovals, mostly of red oak and walnut. Then he asked for a really big oval for a striped bass he was working on a 22X42 made of red oak. I would do a edge glue up, rough cut a oval and sand it with 320 grit Abranet and route a round over or a roman gee edge on it. Stain it with Minwax golden oak. His next project was a wood and glass display case for a pintail duck, with removal glass. I never done one before, but I gave it a shot. OH BTW he wanted welded or leaded glass seams and antique looking. Oh well off to the glass shop asking a million questions. This was my second one, the glass fit so tight one can hear the air rush out putting the glass over the duck.22X16X16. The wood was red oak molding. Bob, my taxidermy buddy did the diorama, turned out great, unfortunately the shipper dropped it and it severely damaged it in San Diego and had to be sent to a local taxidermist and glass shop for repair. The repair taxidermist say it was the best glass case he seen in 40 years. Repair cost to case and duck $1000. Bob, being a duck hunter wanted a turned duck call, I made these, there from a Penn State kit and hard maple finished to 1000 grit with Abranet, He said, first time out he got 2 mallards and 2 teals with them.
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See "red oak 10inch plate"

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See "bass base plate 22x42"

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See "pintail in case"

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See "Black and White calls"

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:13 pm 
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Sounds like a nice side line you got going there. Nice work on the glass case, and calls.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:16 pm 
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those are some GREAT looking projects-- it's a shame the damage was done to the case, but the compliment was nice.

The routed pieces look awesome-- I don't see any end grain tearout, and that is tough to do for sure (especially in oak)

Nice to see you back up and on the board again too,
Lawrence


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:21 pm 
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hey Lawrence, good to see ya, I was lucky on the oak end grain, what gave me the trouble was doing the walnut. But I did about 20 of the base plates so I got pretty good at them, glad you enjoyed the pics.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:50 pm 
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Beautiful work Tom! Love the case. How did you manage to avoid the tear out on the endgrain. It always gives me fits.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:23 pm 
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Frank, about the subject of end grain tear out, and oak is famous for that. I take thin cuts 3-4 passes on the router and go fast along the long grain but slow way down approching the end grain, thru the end grain and out the back side, then I pick up the speed again on the long grain . When I slow down I DONT mean the motor speed of the router but the speed of the cutting pass. I do get more burn marks when I slow down on the cutting pass of the endgrain, but contour sanding will remove the burn marks. I hope this helps. :wink: :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:35 pm 
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Great tip! Thanks Tom. I'll try to remember that the next time I have to round over oak. Knowing my wife, that should be pretty soon. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:40 pm 
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that is a great case . i also do a lot of different bases and case for a friend how has a taxidermy business . i was wondering if there is a special led peace used for making the case?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:00 am 
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I use the foil -solder system. Thats where copper foil tape 3/8 wide and about 100 ft long roll. You tape the edge and sides of the piece of glass that you want to weld together so it forms a U around the glass and using 50/50 solder weld the edges together with a solder iron NOT a solder gun to form a cube. Some glass shops will have the materials for the job. stain glass shops not the auto or home glass shops. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:52 am 
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pilot1022 wrote:
I use the foil -solder system. Thats where copper foil tape 3/8 wide and about 100 ft long roll. You tape the edge and sides of the piece of glass that you want to weld together so it forms a U around the glass and using 50/50 solder weld the edges together with a solder iron NOT a solder gun to form a cube. Some glass shops will have the materials for the job. stain glass shops not the auto or home glass shops. :wink:


There's an article in the most recent FWW on doing leaded glass that lists some sources and describes how to do this (I think). Sounds similar to what you're describing here.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:57 am 
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Wow, beautiful work! If the Repair was $1000, I shudder to think what the whole job cost the end consumer.

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