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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:06 am 
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Just wanted to get your thoughts on trimming the ends of dovetails. I mean the parts that stick out of the corners of the draw box after it is assembled. The boxes I'm building now have between 1/32 and 1/16 sticking out. I've tried everything from my belt sander to my ossicilating spindle sander, but I don't get the crisp square corners that I want.

I'd love to hear your suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:13 am 
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I think many people use a sharp plane. Just have to make sure put a block on the end of the cut so you don't get tearout.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:25 am 
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Low angle jack plane would be the way I do it.

But for you Larry, just drag the corner of the box on the ground while you are driving to the mechanic in your FORD.


-Alden


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:37 am 
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Alden Miller wrote:
Low angle jack plane would be the way I do it.

But for you Larry, just drag the corner of the box on the ground while you are driving to the mechanic in your FORD.


-Alden


:D He is back and back at it... that'a boy!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:40 am 
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Hey Larry,

I agree that a low angle block plane is the best choice.

Some folks contend that it's better to have the ends come up short, rather than proud. That way it's easier to plane the drawer sides to meet the tails than the other way around. I'm not sure that I'd want to do too much of that.

Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:04 am 
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Like this:


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See "Planing Dovetails"


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:15 am 
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What about using a sanding block about 20" long and 4" wide? an old belt sander belt works great.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:31 am 
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Dodge Boy, I don't have a low angle jack, I guess I just got an excuse to buy one. I do have a low angle block.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:48 am 
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Use low angle block plane & or whatever plane you desire, work from edge to center then use card scrapper or sand (hate sandpaper)

Quick-n-easy


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:57 am 
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a low angle block plane is the best choice

QFT

How far is Glenwood from La Plata?

Just sayin.

:D

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:05 pm 
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DMoening wrote:
a low angle block plane is the best choice

QFT

How far is Glenwood from La Plata?

Just sayin.

:D



About as far as it is to Sacramento!

Low angle block is my second choice, will work fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:09 pm 
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Larry Norton wrote:
Dodge Boy, I don't have a low angle jack, I guess I just got an excuse to buy one. I do have a low angle block.


Larry, we know you are a closet Dodge Boy!!!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:01 pm 
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Hi Alden and Larry ,

Beleive or not I stay in Glenwood too :)

Yep kid you not.Small world is it :D

Knowing you Larry you will pick one up this weekened 8)


Have Fun
Francois

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 2:10 pm 
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A block plane is good but I think 1/32" to 1/16" is way too much excess. use a very sharp marking gauge to shoot for around 1/64". I set mine by putting it on the board itself and adjusting until I see just a slight hair of overhang by the point of the gauge.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 7:29 pm 
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Larry,
Why doesn't the belt sander work. :confused: :confused:
It should. I sand mine then rub glue in any small openings, then sand again. It looks nice.
Zulu

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:33 am 
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I have used a little dinky record low angle plane, Record No.0220.
But I ll try belt sander next time. Great tip, Zulu!
/Anders


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:56 am 
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Another option if you have 1/16" or more is to use a dozuki. No set in the teeth will allow you to make a flush cut. Otherwise I would go the route of a low angle block plane.

peter


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 3:57 pm 
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Something else you can do to avoid tear-out with a plane is to chamfer the edge of that would tear out.

Don't you have a wall-full of planes? It doesn't need to be a jackplane. However, some low-angle plane would be best.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:38 am 
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Rockfish wrote:
Something else you can do to avoid tear-out with a plane is to chamfer the edge of that would tear out.

Don't you have a wall-full of planes? It doesn't need to be a jackplane. However, some low-angle plane would be best.


I have seen kids burn the end grain on cherry with belt sanders more often than I care to mention. Mostly because they were too lazy to sharpen. You can use a knife, a chisel in paring mode or a block plane with ease. A back-chamfer or back plane to get the exit below the level of your current cut works fine.

EDIT : If you're a real Norm-type guy, you can set up a flush-trim bit in your router table with the bearing above the pin on the side of the piece. Be sure to climb cut or chamfer back, and feed slowly with a backer block.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:35 pm 
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ploh wrote:
Another option if you have 1/16" or more is to use a dozuki. No set in the teeth will allow you to make a flush cut. Otherwise I would go the route of a low angle block plane.

peter


I'm with Peter. I've used this technique before and it works great. :wink:

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