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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Location: Shorewood, WI, USA
If you hadn't called it veneer, there would have been no problem. A fairly standard way to make rabbeted overlay drawers is to cut through dovetails on the box, and to glue on a slightly larger front to the drawer, creating the rabbet. In your case you simply want to use walnut for the faces. The Stots dovetail jig instructions suggest this approach for half-blind dovetails in general.

I say go for it.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 1:01 am
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Location: Hamilton, MS
AlanWS wrote:
If you hadn't called it veneer, there would have been no problem. A fairly standard way to make rabbeted overlay drawers is to cut through dovetails on the box, and to glue on a slightly larger front to the drawer, creating the rabbet. In your case you simply want to use walnut for the faces. The Stots dovetail jig instructions suggest this approach for half-blind dovetails in general.

I say go for it.


OK. :-D

Here's a pic of the general drawer design from Glen's book, which I'm using extensively.

Image

_________________
Gene


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:11 am 
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Location: hawthorne, nj
I agree with my namesake, r. peterson, expoxy is cheap. Tho, I buy the stuff from boat stores, system 3 or West, with 5 to 1 ratio. You can use it with dust from your ros add some color to make paste to fill knot holes or to bridge any gaps or just for structural strength. Worth the cost for peace of mind.

I'd ship you a clear piece of walnut, might not match your stock.

Without much experience with veneer I'd say if both boards are the same moisture content and your info concerning movement is correct then you shouldn't have any problems.

Yrs ago made a small table 14x10 , sort of like a plant stand, with 3/4 in walnut sandwiched between 3/4 cherry, not knowing moisture content. Nothing has moved yet.


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