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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:25 pm 
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Location: Pittsford, NY
Hello there.

So I'm designing a table for my parents. My mom uses a TV Tray next to her end of the couch and wants a small table to replace it. They have an existing Ethan Allen coffee table and small triangular table that I'm going to match for the style.

So I have this as the base design:

Image

As you can see, the base will be black and the top will be a stained cherry. The top is 24"x14½" . . . so it's a fairly small table.

I need help with the drawer. I basically took all the dimensions from their existing triangular table as the basis for this table. So the arches, slats, legs . . . things like that are a match. The existing table has a 2" apron, but for this table, she wanted a drawer. So in this design I have a 2½" apron.

I guess my problem is that I would like to maximize the depth of the drawer. I've been going back and forth between having an inset drawer or not, and what type of slides (if any) to use. My first thought was to use side mount ball bearing slides, but then I wondered if I needed any apron at all in the front. Can I make the drawer front appear to be the apron? Can I go without an apron in the front? Where would I attach the top on that side?

I'm probably over analyzing this. How would you do it? Under mount slides? No slides at all?

Here are a few more views:

Image

Image

I'm still undecided on the drawer joinery . . . so I'm not sure if I want to cover it with slides or not.

Thanks,

-Brian


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:48 pm 
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I wouldn't worry about attaching the top to the short sides, like the drawer is in, as it's such a short distance. If it's a hardwood top I'd think that attaching it to the long sides would be enough, or you could attach at the tops of the legs.

I personally like the feel of drawers with roller or ball bearing slides, but with a smaller drawer that won't be loaded with a lot of weight, you might think about going a more traditional style and making wooden glides. A little wax and it'll still move smoothly enough. That's what I did for the drawer in a bookstand I made for my folks a few years ago, and it still works smoothly.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:58 pm 
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I agree w/Frank on the wooden glides. Either bottom support, or side supported as I did on my desk.

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:12 pm 
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I agree on the wooden slides. It's not a big drawer and you'll get a little drawer space that way. I used that method on the side table below. I lined the glides with some plastic tape and it works great.


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See "Table 2 side"


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:02 pm 
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Hey . . . nice table . . . and a nice design. :wink:

I agree with all the advice, and will most likely go with wooden slides.

I'm still wondering if I need a front apron. Can I get away with no apron at all?

Thanks,

-Brian


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:33 pm 
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ytsejamr wrote:
Hey . . . nice table . . . and a nice design. :wink:

I agree with all the advice, and will most likely go with wooden slides.

I'm still wondering if I need a front apron. Can I get away with no apron at all?

Thanks,

-Brian


You can do it without an apron. Many old singer sewing machine stands simply enclosed the drawers and slides in a "cage".

Not quite the same as you anticipate, but you get the idea:

Image

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