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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 14, 1998 12:01 am
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Location: Tyaak, Victoria Australia
When I take the "treasures" out of the electrolsis I try to immediatly give them a coat of water dispersant lubricant like RP7 or WD40

It seems to stop further rusting and dries the iron out nicely.

Good threat, Im interested in this sort of thing!

Cheers,
eric


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 7:15 am 
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Any alkaline solution is great for gunk, grease and resin. If you go to real paint stores you can still get my favorite, TSP. Not the faux "green" stuff, which will work, but takes longer, real TriSodium Phosphate. Not quite as harsh as lye, and more potent than simple detergent, it can still take the hide off you if you aren't cautious. Washing soda is pretty good, too. Be sure and dilute that nasty TSP and spread it where you need phosphate fertilizer. It's not on the market because it was too green. Tide and other detergents used to be 0.75% TSP, the remainder inert ingredients.

Soak in plastic containers if you use it, because you really don't need the electrolysis, and iron can pit aluminum or remove the zinc from a pail pretty quick.

Tough stuff can require mechanical help, so I like to have a couple brass flux brushes from the plumbing department on hand. They work without scratching the steel, and you can clean a lot of rust with them as well. Most rust is simply cosmetic, so it's nothing I have a fetish about. Clean the fuzz, not the splotch, oil or wax, and don't let it sit on that piece of oak again. Pitted stuff almost demands Phosphoric acid.


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 Post subject: Soft soap
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:23 am 
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Location: Swede
I use concentrated yellow soft soap, made from pine tree oil.
It contains potassium tallate, potassium carbonate, and sodium sulfate.
Diluted I use it to clean floors, doors and kids toys.
Concentrated I use it to clean dried paintbrushes, paint buckets, greasy and tools. Its not fast to use like white spirit, but it can be used without protective gloves, and with no fumes and not so very toxic its ideal in an environment with kids (schools). A completely dried and rock hard paint brush with oilpaint or acrylic paint is as good as new again after two days in pine tree soap.
Its cheap too, 2 USD for a litre.
/Anders


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 Post subject: Re: Soft soap
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 1999 12:01 am
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Location: Dublin, OH
andersjustincase wrote:
I use concentrated yellow soft soap, made from pine tree oil.
It contains potassium tallate, potassium carbonate, and sodium sulfate.
Diluted I use it to clean floors, doors and kids toys.
Concentrated I use it to clean dried paintbrushes, paint buckets, greasy and tools. Its not fast to use like white spirit, but it can be used without protective gloves, and with no fumes and not so very toxic its ideal in an environment with kids (schools). A completely dried and rock hard paint brush with oilpaint or acrylic paint is as good as new again after two days in pine tree soap.
Its cheap too, 2 USD for a litre.
/Anders


But how much is it for a quart??? :confused: :shock: :D

_________________
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Countin' flowers on the wall,
that don't bother me at all,
smokin' cigarettes and watchin' Captain Kangaroo,
Now don't tell me I've nothin' to do.

Second recipient of the D'oh Award. 4-13-08


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:12 am 
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Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
Evaporust -- has been a standby for me for several years now, and I can't live without it. I've heard that citric acid does a good job of removing ruse, but I'll stick with the EVR.

Unlike Naval Jelly, it's not caustic, gloves not required. I leave very rusty parts iin it overnight, remove, brush and wipe. Once in a great while, I have to resoak. The solution is re-useable several times over before it loses its ability to convert the rust.

I restored an Inca tablesaw (8") 3 years ago. Some parts had both steel and aluminum and could not be dismantled. No problem! just toss the whole thing in the EVR, doesn't harm the aluminum at all!


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