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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Location: Franklin, TN, USA
:confused:
OK for a kazillion years I have been using a reversible glue joint bit for my panel glue ups. Well today I am so frustrated. I have been in my shop for the last several hours trying to get a good seamless glue line. I have the bit set to match the thickness just fine. But no matter how hard I clamp these 32 inch panels I still do not get a tight closure on either side. Yes I have prepared the wood edges with my jointer [yes checked for square]. Yes I have checked 90 angle of the router fence. And I have tried every micro adjustment on depth of cut and still a very unacceptable fit. All this when I have made at least 100 raised door panels with this bit in the past with a perfect undetectable glue line.

Can anyone help this frustrated [and feeling quite dimb] woodworker?

Thanks,

Jim in Folsom, CA


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Location: Dover, Pa (York)
Well since it will be mentioned I'm sure i might as well be the first. Is the cutting edge worn out on the bit? since you have made "100" joints with it. what kind of difference(gap) are we talking about? Pictures speak a thousand words ! :wink:


Jeremy


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:57 pm 
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Location: Ventura, California, USA
Need pictures to be sure of what you are having a problem with.

Is it the rail & stile joint? Is the stub tenon leaving a gap that can be seen on the door edge (top/bottom)? Or are you talking about edge glued panel fields?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:08 pm 
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Location: Franklin, TN, USA
Thanks for your help,
I have not prepared my photos yet.
The problem I am referring to is when on the pieces assembled for the raised panel. The mating edge surfaces do not match. They show a hairline gap regardless of my clamp pressure. This only occurs on any given set of boards if I used the reversible glue bit.
and per the one response ya'll provided-I am also wondering if the bit is becoming worn out. The funny thing is that the problem only occurs on boards of 2' or longer. And yes I have checked the boards for bow, warp and twist prior to sending them throught the glue bit.
Thanks again for your help.

Jim


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:39 pm 
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Location: Rolling Meadows, IL. USA
Like this?
Image

Stupid question are the boards dead straight?

_________________
"It is not a mistake it is a learning experience"
Monte


Last edited by Daddy Gloves on Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:39 pm 
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^^^^^^^^ So, the Rail & Stile do not go together completely? There's a gap between the rail end and the side of the stile where the stile is profiled?

To me this sounds like your stub tenon on the rail is a bit long. You could just sand the end of it a bit to see if the parts fit better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:26 pm 
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Location: Saratoga, Ca, USA
Check the ends of the fence for flat all the way from end to end. when the longer board gets there it may push it farther into the bit


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:13 pm 
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Is there a top bearing on the bit?

if not it would seem as though you are not removing enough material in the middle of the board.

You are using the same router table/shaper as you have always used?

Darryl


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:20 pm 
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My first thought, like R. Peterson said, was the bit. However, if it works for boards 2' or shorter, that can't be the problem. Since you say the boards are straight before routing, I have to think the problem is with your fence. It is not properly supporting the board and as a result, it is introducing some curvature.


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