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 Post subject: Shower Curtain Clips
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:04 am 
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My wife replaced the shower curtain in one of the bathrooms and was all set to throw away the metal shower curtain clips.

No, nope, never ..... makes great hangers for tools

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 Post subject: Shower curtain
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:40 pm 
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Perfect for protection of your fancy workbench while painting.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 6:47 pm 
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Just read this on an e-mail.....
If you use foam paint brushes (and I do) when you are done with it and it is hard as a carp, rip the foam off! Some of them have a plastic stiffener that makes an exelent glue spreader!!!!
Haven't used this idea yet but, you can bet your boots that I will!!!! :-D

Rog

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:47 pm 
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An automatic center punch is an easy way to make a divot for a turning point or drill.
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:15 am 
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Well, no one has posted up here lately so, I thought that I'd give it a try. :-D

Not long ago there was a discussion on miters on picture frames and how to keep them square and in line while the glue sits, so I thought I would show ONE of the ways I do it.
It is a jig that I found plans on along time ago and made one out of scrap. It only requires one clamp so, I call it a jig instead of a clamp.
I had occasion to frame a chess board yesterday (the field of the board is "floating" in the frame so don't think the chess board is backing up the frame.) and I took some snapshots to post here.


Image
See "Frame jig assembly"


The legs are 16" long, the corner pieces are 3" square with an 1-1/2" notch cut into a 1/4" hole at center and the clamp bars are 4-1/2" long.
As you can see, it uses eight 1/4" bolts 2" long and washers and wing nuts for pivots.


Image
See "Frame jig in use"


This frame is 20" square and as you can see ALMOST maxes out the jig. It works on almost any shape frame but, the closer to square the better And is adjustable for almost anything. You may need a longer clamp if you frame is alot bigger.
Hope this helps out someone who may not have seen a jig like this. They are not hard to build (I mean GEE, even I did it!!!! :shock: )

Rog

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An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

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 Post subject: Making One
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:30 am 
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Location: JamesCity Va.
I think I will have to make one.


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 Post subject: Removing paint
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:25 pm 
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This I remember my grandfather doing.
If you are trying to remove paint from small metal parts use a fairly strong solution of crystal lye (drain cleaner) in water and soak the parts for an hour or so the paint just just falls off.

CAUTION: where goggles and/or face shield, and rubber gloves, IT IS DANGEROUS AND WILL BURN YOUR SKIN!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:16 pm 
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Years ago we had a large wooden barrel outside our shop that was filled with a strong lye solution. We would hang motorcycle parts (fenders, tanks, ect) in the solution over night and rinse them off with a water hose next day. Paint would be gone and part shines like new metal. Must dry the part quickly and get a coat of paint on it. Rust starts very fast.lol Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:59 pm 
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This is one I read on an e-mail post from a magazine. I didn't think it would work but I had to try it out........It works!!! :-D
To clean the sand paper on the disc or belt sander, use a cork! A wine cork either real cork on the new synthetic type works wonders in just a minute. (I don't think the screw on caps would be quite as good. :-? )
If you are like me and don't normally drink wine, I'm sure you have a friend who likes the better grades of vino that have corks in the bottles. For some strange reason they seem to save them and will usually part with a few for your use in the shop. (Ply them with a promise of a new wine rack or something. :D )

Rog

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An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 7:58 pm 
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Hey guys,
I just thought of another tip that I did a few months ago.
I kinda wanted some of those painters pyramids that the stores are touting but, I didn't think the little plastic things would work for the larger item that I was working on.
Looking around the shop, I found some 2-1/2" circles of 3/4" plywood from the hole saw centers from a previous project and a length of 1/4" dowel. I sharpened the end of the dowel on my always ready, hand cranked, pencil sharpener and cut it to a 2" length and pressed it into the 1/4" hole left in the center of the hole saw drop. INSTANT PAINTERS SUPPORT!!! :D :D
Make 4 or 6 of those and they work great. they are heavier, stronger, can be broken down if necessary, (dowels don't even need to be glued in) and tossed in the grill fire when you don;t need them any longer. :-D

Rog

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Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:01 pm 
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If wood glue gets on your metal clamp bars, especially the ones with serrations, use an electric clothes steamer, the little portable one, to steam it off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:56 pm 
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For years I have used a switch and outlet combo cover on a 4x4 steel electrial box to control my table saw (has no built in switch) and other tools that also provided a safety disconect (by unpluging the cord).

I do not have a dust collection system, but rather move the collector from tool to tool. By using the same setup and mounting it to the tool and pluging the collector in to the switched portion of the outlet and the tool into the unswitched portion, I can turn the tool and the dust colector on and off seperatly.

I am curently working on a setup for my table saw.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 4:28 pm 
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Location: Northern Maine and out of the city.
Build a big cabinet and place a 40 watt
Light bulb inside to keep your finishes and glues from getting stiff in the winter :D
That's if your in a cold place like me.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 3:59 am 
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very nice tips. Lets keep enthusiast on woodworking to produce good product.
Also STOP DEFORESTATION

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 3:55 pm 
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Hey Guys,

I know it's not exactly the season for it, but if you have to do a glue up in an unheated shop in the winter, consider buying a cheap twin sized electric blanket for your shop. I throw mine over all the pieces that I need to glue up, on top of my bench. That way they are all nice and warm when the glue hits them. Then I throw it over the completed glue up so that the glue cures properly. It shuts off automatically after 10hrs.

Cheers,
Tom

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 Post subject: Re: battery chargers
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 12:48 pm 
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bovineboy wrote:
Put a simple lamp timer on your battery chargers. I have many different chargers/batteries that require different charging times. Instead of killing them because I forgot to unplug them, just use a timer. Set if for the 3 hours or what ever and forget it.
Of course remember, it will turn back on in 24 hours and charge again. :-D


Get the timer that uses little plugs to turn it on and off. Just don't use the plug that turns it on. Now it will turn off after the set time and not turn on again until you manually turn it on.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:12 am 
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Hi all, I'm new here but I figured this is as good a place as any to introduce myself.

There's a lot of good tips here, I just finished reading the whole thing. Figured I might add a few myself..

... when I come across a "pitch pocket" on a stick, I cut that piece off neatly (and small as possible) and keep it near the tablesaw. I use it to get my fingertips sticky, a little bit of sap goes a long way..

Earlier, someone mentioned about using a 40W lightbulb to keep finishes and glue from getting stiff in the cold, and it reminded me of another use for lightbulbs. ... In a humid environment, a little "night light" will keep the air dry inside a smaller box. This works real good for keeping the wire from rusting inside a mig welder... I guess it would work for other things that you want to protect from humidity too.

To keep 5 gallon buckets from sticking together ... (everyone has a few extra 5 gallon buckets stacked up somewhere, right?) ... stand a paint stick up along the side of each bucket as you stack them. It breaks the vacuum, and makes them much easier to separate later.

cheers,

Jim


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:57 pm 
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Hey Folks,

I use a cheap, twin sized electric blanket in my shop to pre heat parts for glue ups, and to keep the glued joint warm while the glue cures. Since I don't heat the shop when I'm not in it, the electric blanket is an essential tool in the winter.

Cheers,
Tom

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 7:14 pm 
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tms wrote:
Hey Folks,

I use a cheap, twin sized electric blanket in my shop to pre heat parts for glue ups, and to keep the glued joint warm while the glue cures. Since I don't heat the shop when I'm not in it, the electric blanket is an essential tool in the winter.

Cheers,
Tom


that is a great idea!

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