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 Post subject: Table top disc shape oak
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 5:18 am 
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I ve been asked to make a circular table top for a friend of mine. he is a welder and plans to make the under carrage / legs of square steel tubing.
he has bought a new house and wants a big table. He asked at a furniture company and was given a very hig price, 3000 USD.
he asked me if I could make one. He wants oak. I thoght about gluing 3 kitchen tops together and the cut out the disk with a jig saw and sand the edges. https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/70273799/ Buiscit the joints or plugs? Size of the finished table top disk will be 160 cm diameter, 63 inches... I asked him if I could make in in two semi circles, but no. He wants one disc.
I havent got sach clamps so long but several 3 inch ratchet straps with winch for truck cargo. I thought to use them and also 2’*4’ planks and screw clamps to keep it flat during glue up.
However to prevent the table top from warping it needs a pretty big frame under neath. (Square) How big? And the metal under carrage/ legs should it be fasten directly in the table top or the frame? Thickness of the tabletop is 2,8 cm or 1,1 inches.
I have space to work in so that isnt an issue.
My friend will buy the material and told me to have a go.
Comments and advice are much appriciated. Hope you understand my Swenglish.

Thanks beforehand.
/ Anders


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 1:19 pm 
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Hey Anders,
Sounds like a cool project. Here's a few of things to consider:

If you are using pre finished counter tops (or pre sanded), instead of biscuits or sash clamps consider pocket screws and a Kreg jig. As much as the purist in me objects, there really is a place for them and it's the underside of your table. Be careful to place them so that they are well within the finished perimeter, and use glue. The advantage of the pocket screws is that you should get perfect alignment of the pieces so no, or minimal resurfacing once the glue dries.

Given that there is no apron, make sure that the frame is small enough to be unseen from standing height. It should be as big as possible given that constraint. The legs should be welded into the frame and if need be, gusseted for stiffness. It really depends on the size of the legs. A goodly sized square tubing might be able to do without gusseting, but I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy in this regard.

Fasten the top to the frame with slotted holes in the frame to allow for wood expansion across the grain. Don't ignore this or you will regret it.

Good luck, take pictures,
Tom

ps. If you have a router, consider using a 25º under cut bit with a bearing to create a slight bevel on the edge. It adds a little elegance and tends to hide any irregularities in the shape.

pps. I just took a look at the Ikea product which you linked to. I'm not sure the english site is the exact equivalent, but it shows a veneered particle board piece. You will need to protect the edge with banding or some other such treatment. Alternatively, you could go with a solid wood top such as Boos Block. It's more expensive, but a better product and a better match for the effort that you're putting into the project.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 10:29 pm 
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Tom wrote
Quote:
If you have a router, consider using a 25º under cut bit with a bearing to create a slight bevel on the edge. It adds a little elegance and tends to hide any irregularities in the shape.

The other advantage of using a router is that you will get a much smoother circle. Use the jig saw to rough out the circle, then use some sort of compass jig with the router to get a true circle.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 10:33 pm 
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Hey drstrip,

I agree. I use a router trammel for all my round tables. If Anders does use the veneered Ikea product, then it would be a doubly good idea as a saber or jigsaw will more likely tear the veneer.

Cheers,
Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2018 8:17 am 
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I bought the three bench tops today. They are massive oak, not laminated mdf. Ill check what routerbits I got. My router isnt a big one, 8 mm shank/collet and 1400 W Festool plunge router. Today it is too hot anyway with a bit over 31C degrees som I wait for a cooler day before I start wworiking on it.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 11:21 am 
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Pretty wood !!! Can't wait to see the finished project !!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:14 am 
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Still hot weather today.
First I noticed the edges were rounded off at the sides of the big boards I bought.
So I took a plane and planed them. Ideally I would have used my planer but I was alone and it didnt feel safe to balance it over the rotating cutter.
My neighbour wasnt home, so I couldnt use his industrial ratched straps for clamping. Tired with domestic home depot style ratched straps. They werent strong enough. I had to use some hilbilly engeneering and join to sash clamps together with bolts an nuts. Then I could clamp two boards tightly together. The third one I have to wait for stronger straps.
Now I need a cold drink to cool down.

Thanks for watching.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 2:51 pm 
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This is getting real interesting.
Looking forward for more and progress.

Duan

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 4:55 pm 
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I, too, am interested in how this turns out.
Looks good so far.
Zulu

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 8:36 am 
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It's hard to believe, a woodworker without a few Pipe Clamps . :-)
...lew...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:12 am 
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Pipe clamps... I wish I could buy them in Sweden. Used them in US, screwed on steel water pipes. As I remember them it was hard to gett a grip on the pipe. Maybe it was cheap hardwear. Anyway I used the angle grinder on the pipe to get more friction then.
I have 20 sash clamps various lengths from 80 cm to 120 cm. This table top is my biggest glue up so far.

It is very hot summer here in Sweden. In fact the hottest summer weather in 260 years! Over 40 wild fires going in the country. I wish I had air con in the workshop. After 40 min of gluing, clamping I was shattered an had to take a shower, and this was in the morning before the heat has hit for real... Anyway today I had the wide retched straps so I was a doodle to clamp it tight together.
Thanks for watching
Anders


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:17 am 
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Was up early this morning before the temperature stared to get extreme.
In the center of the board I put a piece of chip board. When I found the center I glued in place with the hot glue gun.
Then I took a strip of MDF, drilled holes for pen and center screw. Used it as a compass. Worked great.
Cutting with the jig saw was a pain. Oak is hard and I use two blades before I had cut it out. The blade got so hot It got blue.
Routing.... I listened to you advice about routing the edges an chamfer the edge. However I´m not a skilled router. To have some sort of steering guidance i checked in the router box. After some hilbilly engeneering I welded on one of the bars to a flat piece of steel and screwed that in the chipboard. Routed the slab completely circular in several passes, takaing 1/4´ depth at each go. After that I found a ball bearing guided routerbit and chamfered the edge. (At least I guess its called so in English?)
I removed the glued chipboard with a hot air gun and a chisel.
Sanded off any rests of glue.
Tomorrow I start on the under carrage frame.
Thank you for all advice. So far I am happy.
Thanks for watching.
/Anders


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:22 am 
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More photos
Thanks for watching
/Anders


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:56 am 
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Looking great!
Good thinking on your part.
"Necessity is the Mother of invention".

Zulu

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:59 pm 
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well done!
I'm amazed that you can't get pipe clamps in Sweden (or is it Europe more generally?) Sounds like an opportunity for someone


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:38 am 
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Finally the table has moved in the house!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:44 am 
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Absolutely Beautiful, Anders!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 1:53 pm 
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andersjustincase wrote:
Pipe clamps... I wish I could buy them in Sweden. Used them in US, screwed on steel water pipes. As I remember them it was hard to get a grip on the pipe.


I'm a little late to the party, and perhaps this has been addressed already but -

Do not use galvanized (water) pipe with pipe clamp fittings. The zinc coating is what allows the clamp clutches to slip. Just use ordinary black iron pipe. You won't get the slipping.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 1:55 pm 
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andersjustincase wrote:
Finally the table has moved in the house!


Congrats!! Great looking project.

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