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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 9:53 pm 
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Location: Lakeport NY (Syracuse)
OK all you spinny guys,
right now I've mostly got 'dry' logs (some checking, mostly before I picked them up), but I'm going to put the word out to family and friends that I want wet logs if they have any.


http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... blade.aspx

It would be $19 plus shipping etc...

what say ye, is it worth having a dedicated 'wet' wood blade or should I just get a general purpose blade and be done with it.

I only have a 14" HF bandsaw with a lift kit installed, I'm not going to be putting huge logs through it, nor trying to horse anything through it quickly.

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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 12:51 am 
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I have one of these blades and have been very pleased with it. Takes a good clean cut, is sized to cut cylidrical bowl blanks easily. It is performing much better than the general purpose dry wood 3/8" blade that I tried first.

Good luck,
chip

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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:19 am 
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You might want to go for a 1/2 blade with the riser. Sort of push/pull with the extra width but lesser thickness. Until pieces get close to 50% of the lathe swing, round is not that critical, so a 5" diameter is fine. Main thing is the slternate set for a wide kerf that keeps the warm wood from swelling closed on the blade. AS or AS-S both work fine.

I get mine here, and they're excellent blades. http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/silicon ... ection.asp


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 11:25 am 
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Wet or dry, dedicated or general purpose make sure you use the correct TPI for the size of the log.

AND DON'T TELL ME YOUR GOING TO GO SLOWLY INSTEAD OF CHANGING THE 6TPI FOR THE 3TPI. You will fry the blade, DAMHIKT. :wink:

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NEVER MAKE ANYTHING OUT OF TEAK
Always remove the zero clearance insert before you tilt the blade DAMHIKT


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 8:48 pm 
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I go slowly just because it is relatively underpowered

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 12:50 am 
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Jeff Fox wrote:
... You will fry the blade, ...


And don't go fast just because you've got a mondo blade and gobs of horsepower to shove it through the wood. "You'll fry the blade."! Another DAMHIK!!

I've had good luck with 3TPI skip tooth blades for most any work destined for the lathe. Not worried about smoothness of the cut so I'll go bi metal or silicone steel. They both seem to work well in wet wood. Around here, the Puget Sound region of WA state, we're fortunate to have a really good saw shop in Seattle, Eastside Saw. Yeah that's a shameless plug but they're a top notch source for all things saw blade related. It pays to search out a local vendor that has a good working knowledge of what's best for a given cutting application.

Don't know how big your 'logs' are or what kind of wood, but I have a feeling, perhaps wrong but, ... you'll be taxing your saw. I do wish you luck.

As for the 'dry' logs you 'claim' to posess, I have to invoke the NPDH rule! And failure to provide species data for the initial question adds another 30 lashes with a wet noodle!

Just kiddin'. I'm jealous 'coz I've got a plastic bag full of plum that's begging me to get it on the lathe and I just can't get to it!

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:57 pm 
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DennisS wrote:
And don't go fast just because you've got a mondo blade and gobs of horsepower to shove it through the wood. "You'll fry the blade."! Another DAMHIK!!

Don't know how big your 'logs' are or what kind of wood, but I have a feeling, perhaps wrong but, ... you'll be taxing your saw. I do wish you luck.

As for the 'dry' logs you 'claim' to posess, I have to invoke the NPDH rule! And failure to provide species data for the initial question adds another 30 lashes with a wet noodle!


Image

Image

one of my stash.. species is 'dunno' wood.

I'm debating how to take off that 'foot'
because it isn't supported when at the blade. I don't want to kink the blade.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:02 pm 
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clamp it to a sled? That's how I do my pieces that I'm scared will be unsupported. I made a simple one with faces for the clamps to register to-- on one occasion I even screwed a log to a flat board (and was careful not to hit the screws)

Lawrence


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 3:53 am 
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Why do you need to take off the foot? Though I have, as Lawrence has, screwed into an area scheduled to disappear and slud the whole plywood/greenwood complex through, it's not a necessity when your lathe has low speed. Two points will allow you to trim all others.

Be sure to wedge under the tall parts if you use one of the clamp or screw methods. Shinola happens.


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